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I’m lost and hope you can help I have a tx1000 was working fine then both tracks quit at the same time as I was pushing a pile, lifted it up and absolutely nothing to either side the hydraulics are working the arms move fine. I did crack line going into the tandem and it does spray. Any ideas?

I always, and there’s no written law, but I always run it around a few times after adjustment and recheck. Those type valves for some reason can move or settle in after an adjustment amd the clearance change. They’re aggravating to be sure but essential. Living in FL we need a genny ready all summer.

I'm trying to get more information from these websites and on the DPA5 interface that goes between the laptop and the tractor.

Has anyone looked at the software from Any EPC or Meca Programs? The screens look like the screens I've observed on the dealers diagnostic software.

Ya, there's not much out there on the diagnostic software. It appears that there is aftermarket stuff out there that looks very much like the dealer software. I posted this question on Tractor By Net in May, but got no response. If you google, "LS MTRON Tier4 Diagnostic Software", stuff comes up from Case/New Holland, but it requires a license. There is also stuff from Any EPC and Meca Programs that looks very much like the dealer software I've seen and it's $150. For me, the issue is that I'm not familiar with this interface. A DPA5 adapter is required between the PC and the tractor. Since you're already using Diesel Laptop, suspect you are already familiar with the necessary interface. I've played the Any EPC video, th-cam.com/video/3JGNIl6sR_4/w-d-xo.html, in slow motion and the screens look very similar to the dealer software that I've seen. As soon as I feel comfortable enough to buy the DPA5 interface, I'll probably get the software. Their direct loading is a bit of a concern and so far I not getting any response from them, so there are RED flags that I need to sort out.

Gotta look at 990 seems as if axle might of broke will drive with diff locked. But not without. Ever seen that happen or another common issue?????

thanks for making and posting this video and others on the TX1000 !! I bought a used machine from a local rental place a couple months ago... Your videos on this machine have given me great knowledge on the mechanics. I've done automotive and motorcycle repair work before but never on any type of skid steer or tractor or anything with hydraulics.. so... I knew nothing about these types of machine and how they function.. until now... thanks to you. this has helped me tremendously!!! and I just wanted to let you know.

Had the same issue with my 03 Ranger 6x6. Also that insulation in front of the exhaust manifold is flammable and caught fire on mine. It shorted my fuel wire and I think the relay. Do you know where it's located?

amigo você lembra qual foi mm da junta do cabecote que utilizou ?

Awesome! Thank you so much

I really like your video man thank you super helpful to the point and full of information that’s not dragged out.

I'm Keith from Pittsburgh pa and I want to give you props on your video, too much to list on problems but I watched your video twice and was able to find out what the problem was in the tandem pump and got my machine moving again...great learning video

I’ve got that same thing going on with mine but it’s the drivers side, mines also leaking out of the vent tube by the remote oil filter. Drivers side works great until it warms up then slowly stops working. And idea about the oil coming out the vent tube? Thanks I’m going to show my mechanic this video.

Just a couple pointers. If you had left the wheel and tire installed on the opposite side it would have added weight (pendulum effect) and kept this side up in the air, easier to work on. You wouldn’t have had to stick the Jack stand under it. 2nd. There is a roll of polishing material we used to call crocus cloth. You could have rolled about 12” off, used it like a polishing belt and cleaned the sealing surface to a mirror finish. Great job though. I’m doing the same job on a smaller Kubota (B7500), last time about 13 years ago. The B’series seal has a wear ring on the sealing surface. You do need to be sure that sealing surface on the spindle does not have any fine cracks in it. It’s a common problem on all these tractors due to being worked so hard. They will really pour grease if cracked. If you check with the Kubota deal you will find the sales history reflects a lot of the spindles being replaced.

Hello. I have a customer brought me one of these tx1000 with a left side steering issue. Both sides are strong, not weak, same travel speed. However, the left side does not stop in either direction, unless you ,over the pilot control inthe opposite direction. So it's dangerous to operate, as you have to pull back on the pilot control or the left side keeps moving. Both forward and reverse directions. I swapped hoses onthe left and right pilot controls... And the problem stayed on the left side,(being controlled by the right pilot stick). The right side drive worked perfectly using the left side pilot stick. Soooo, that made sure then pilot controls are fine. Both hydros are strong and quiet. So I am assuming it is in the servo control part of the rear pump? Can the pump be repaired without removing? I can't seem to get the servo plunger out of the side. Thanks for any help!

Fixing to replace that knuckle seal on a L3710. It's not leaking it's pouring out. Very informative video. I've replaced these seals on different tractors but this is a first on a Kubota and I wanted to make sure I'd be doing it right. It's a little bit different but I'm pretty confident my dad and me can do it now. The only thing we need other than the parts is a good set of snap ring pliers. Thanks for the video.

really should have used a seal puller - even the most minute scratch will always leak - we call that redneck gigging - always a bad thing - even if it works out OK -- its Wrong ! - Badly Wrong ! --------------- SHAME on ya -- for supposedly being a Real mechanic ---- Had I have been the one who Hired ya -- i would have raised hell and sent ya to buy one -- or sent yo butt home - and they sell a brass or small orange Nylon hammer for JUST those purposes of banging on things so as not to ding or dent them - even a minute amount - - Micky mouse BS is you ! - Just saying -

Hello, great video. Where are you getting the pump parts? Thank you.

I do the same thing you do and I work on a ton of LS tractors. What would you recommend? I am acquiring about a Diesel laptop what is your personal opinion?

Can you come to northwest PA tomorrow around 8 and fix ours?

Yes, Generacs are pieces of shit. Just replaced a 10kW engine the things fucked from the get-go.

Thank you I left you a voicemail today I’m hoping this is what is wrong with my tx1000 .

We generally flow test between the pump and motor to determine if the pump or motor is the problem

Yeah a lot of disassembly to find problem. But like ya said ya gotta figure out wiring harness and what goes to what. Did ya clean up dirt and grime before reassembling ? Nice work, looks like a good couple hrs to put back together

great video, nice work

I have a tx1000 wide track won’t turn right. Trying to get some input on it.

For what it's worth my LS xr4150 does have an automobile style OBDII port (under center plastic panel under steering wheel) and I can read basic codes with my $40 Autel scanner. I've had similar throttle issues. I just silicon greased the connector. Hesitant to say that it fixed issue, but it worked the last two three times.

Would this issue cause the track to be able to be spun by hand? I have a nonworking side and I can spin the track by hand, trying to diagnose. Excellent video btw!

Excellent video, good info. Thank you. I have a TX1000 with a weak (not dead) right side drive motor. This will help me diagnose it.

Good detailed video. Nice job.

Thanks for the video...I've got a stuck seal on m L3010 and your technique for removal really helped me figure out how to get it out without damaging the front gear case.

You could use a Dremel to clean that surface it’s easier than using sandpaper on Emery cloth

What came of this project? I have same problem in my 410 right now

Great video. Doing my Kubota L4400DT. Thanks.

Fr working on seals fr cars, to get the seal ring out, I use 2 flat head or round tool to punch into the seal to stay n hold, try to pull it out. always put some grease around the seal or inside the bearing so it goes in smoothly.

Screw 2 wood screws into seal sidewall and pull. Out

What is the part # for a bottom plug on a L3010?

What kinda oil goes in the axel?

Thanks for the videos! Same axle layout as L4701. Changed out my seals today. Boy are the seals expensive. Glad I did it to save on labor. 👊

Great video! Is the setup the same for the L35?

I know you wrote in the comments that almost all Kubota front axles this style are put together the same way. Is the Kubota L4200 front axle essentially the same? it appears so but was searching for some reassurance. Thanks!

I have the same tractor with what I think is a transmission problem. It won't move forward or backward. can you share with me your opinion of what the problem is? I changed the transmission fluid and filter, but that didn't solve the problem.

That's not an 8N ... it's an NAA, 600, 700, 800, or 900 series tractor. Look on the bell housing for the stamp and you'll see what model it is.

Best video i have found

Thanks for your video

I just want to thank you for this video. Today, I replaced the knuckle seal on my L4060. 668 hours and 3 1/2 years old. Took me about two hours. I went on Messick's site and printed out the PDF for reference and compared it to the L3830. Exact same setup, just different part numbers, so I felt comfortable doing it myself. Thanks again!

I use a long brass punch from the bottom end and tap the bearing and use the bearing to push out the seal

On mine I find if I don’t idle the machine all the way down it’s not wanting to shift gears. If I idle down it slips into gear fine but if it’s at high rpm, doesn’t want to go in easy. It’s not a problem I was wondering if this is normal.

Much easier to do on bench

Nice work on the video Sir. Thanks for this. The hardest part for me on my L4200 was trying to get the damn tie rod end off. No under breath words were utilized...they flowed out pretty freely. The other hard part was the snap rings. The crappy little 4" snap ring pliers don't work. There is not enough handle leverage to open/close the snap ring. I bought a $50 set of 13" snap ring pliers off Amazon only to find out the plier ends are too big and wouldn't fit in the snap ring holes. It was a goat rope of a time using needle nosed pliers ground down to a pointy end but eventually I got them out. A tip that helps - Use 2 jack stands under the axle. This way there is no 'sea-sawing' movement of the axle as your messing with it. The moral of my story.... Having the right tools will mitigate a ton of frustration. Cheers!