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Total bummer! Was just reading up on them. Tradegy since they made such good products. Just not good at buisness. Hope you get your money back!

Really depends on the size of the stump! You will notice when the machine no longer hits wood.

I have hit them with no issues. The tines are also replaceable if you run into a issue.

Yes I can just send me a message. The remote came with the tractor so not sure on that the hydraulic top link I purchased online.

And yet he was so much more helpful than yourself. Check out "the man in the arena".

I considered that but being in new England having a higher air temp in the winter actually helps.

Ford 2110! I have a walk around on my Chanel if you are interested.

Somewhere around 1000-1500sqft. I lost the measurements I took!

I absolutely did. I really wanted the independent tines but couldn't stomach the price.

do you have to use 4wd when using the plugger?

@@FreightDog2129 I would say depends. If your yard is relatively flat and you have enough grip with the rear tires then no. If you are going to spin the rears at any point and ruin your lawn then yes.

@@FreightDog2129if you have 4 wd use it makes life so much easier

I already had a battery tender style connection to the battery so I was able to utilize that. Something like this. Battery Tender Ring Terminal Harness Accessory Cable, Cord Adapter with SAE Quick Disconnect a.co/d/2WHY1yX

At the time I paid around 600 for all the insulation. Looks like it went up about $10 each so I would estimate 700-750!

@@adventureswithtim5598 i have thoes old paper attached insulation R21 , should i trash them and put some new ones, because i want to use the loose insulation 1st and then put R30 rolls without paper.

The paper is a barrier and should only be facing the drywall. The key is not to have insulation-paper-insulation or you will have a mold issue. You can pull the paper off to save some money! Not sure how easy it would be on old insulation.

@@adventureswithtim5598 that's what i was thinking, i probably try to save some of it by taking the paper off and use it. That video helped me a lot . Also if i want to put some boards so to walk on is it a good idea to put boards like 8 inch wide and 60 or 70 inch in length on top of insulation or just leave it as is

If you need walking platform I wouldn't put it directly on the insulation. Compressed insulation is useless. Build a frame and make sure to insulate under it.

Hard to fully remember but I was able to get rid of at least 10-15 little 4-16" stumps. I think 2-3 12" stumps and then a monster. Species of wood and age of stump really will determine time as I was working through black cherry and its very tough! Cuts through pine like it wasn't even there.

Link is in the description!

The actuator is so powerful it will just bend the lever and metal around the stop! So I only use the stop as a guide for when to cut the power.

I am unsure of the oil. The manufacturer is Barreto which you may be able to find on their website. This unit barely heated up for me and I bet it is designed to work all day!

How did it work for you?

I just rented one to knock out 2 big stumps at my sister's house saves you a bunch of of money easy to use

Where the heck do you live that they charge $2K for 3 stumps with 36" base? That would be maybe $500 or less in Upstate NY

I highly doubt that unless that's a friend, family members price. I also live in upstate NY with a stump grinder, and I wouldn't touch 3 - 36" stumps for less than $1,200 it's not worth the drive and your time to do for less when you factor in the cost of equipment, insurance etc... running a legitimate business isn't cheap. However, I completely agree if you are able and have a truck to transport you will save a ton renting one and doing it yourself!

@@xtexbrown technically he told me it would be approximately $1400 just to do basic grinding to the ground but if I wanted him to go down below the surface and grind all the big roots since this was a big tree that would bring it closer to $2000 including hauling away all the chips. This is in Washington state south of Seattle.

Here is the link. Price definitely went up though! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXRLLDQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Glad I can help! It’s been working great for me since I installed it.

Depends on size of job I guess. If you can have someone do it for that price I'd go with that as well!

Maybe for 1 or 2 but if you have many stumps and and have the ability to use the machine go for it

The rear lights I wired myself since I was adding some more.

@@adventureswithtim5598 did you tie into the factory light switch with the new lights or did you have to route them differently?

@@osuevans86 Unfortunately the factory light switch was already missing so I had to get a little creative wiring it. I was able to use some original wires so it is fused and connected to the ignition switch. I did add an additional switch for independent control of headlights and rear lights. The original hazard switch was still there so I was able to reuse that.

@@adventureswithtim5598 Gotcha, yeah I may have to totally rewire all the lights on mine, luckily it seems all the switches work. It’s a shame support for these tractors is so hard to come by. There is a place out in Elizabethtown, PA that deals primarily in used Ford tractor parts called Long Lane Tractor. I was able to find the hazard lights through them and they seem to have a pretty good inventory of stuff. I didn’t know if you knew about them or not, but sounds like you’ve got it pretty well figured out. Looks like a really nice machine!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks! Ya I have been working on my "match strike" since this video. Thanks for watching!

I use the foot throttle to hold it down and then let go to idle. Recently installed a kats circulating tank heater into the block (previous owner looks like they had one). Starts up soooo easily now.

Thanks! I don't know how I operated before I had it.

Thanks! That makes a lot of sense!

@@adventureswithtim5598 he is 100% correct lmao. I see this way to often

So far so good here. I haven't found a way to break it yet and I would definitely buy it again. I find myself using my mig to tack pieces in place and then coming back for the nice welds (well nice for me) with this thing. Truthfully though these units seem to be simple so if you find something cheaper I wouldn't really hesitate too much unless there are 0 reviews from a unknown brand.

@@adventureswithtim5598 I own a Metal Man Arc80T but that is maxed at 80 amps at 110 no 220 option and that machine is very good atleast for my purposes

Thank you for the feedback! I will add in some diagrams.

So far so good! Has handled 1/2 inch steel no problem on a 220v. Can't really find a fault yet!

@@adventureswithtim5598 ride on and thanks for the speedy response, I appreciate you.

Thanks for watching!