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Great video. Got me through changing mine…. Clicking and stuck again within 2 weeks even with the motorcraft part. Fml

Appreciate it

Wow. That is so correct!!!

How about taking the key out of the ignition before you start the video?

Awesome video dude!! Saved me some hard earned cash and expanded my knowledge bank!!! Not easy but rewarding when it's all done and that noise is gone!!! Cheers

My 2011 F150 has dual zone heat/AC, I've determined that when I turn the passenger side temperature down, I get some clicking for a bit, then it stops - from the description in your video, it sounds like this is the actuator I have to change, I'm going to give it a try. Can you tell me if you needed to do any recalibration "voo-doo" ritual afterwards to set up the actuator, or does it self-calibrate?

Reminds me of this video: th-cam.com/video/BIlXSCDuZ-4/w-d-xo.html

we need to HEAR....HEAR the problem so we can tell if we have the SAME problem BEFORE it's replaced......................

Great instructive video for replacing the heater blend door motor. huh, $8 to fix that dang clicking sound

What if there's no popping sound can the door still be bad

Maybe I missed it but you must have recorded the sound it made??! We need to hear that part to help figure out our problem.

Thanks buddy I have to replace one n my wife car thanks so much for the tutorial

Thanks for the video. I had the auto shop replace the actuator about 2 years ago and I need to do it again. You're right, the auto shop charged $200+ in labor to replace the actuator. The part cost less than $20. So this time, I'm going to do the replacement myself and save a couple hundred bucks. Thanks for the glove compartment tip. I have big hands to squeeze into a small area. Have a fine week. 👍🏽🙂 5/9/22

You are the man! Enough said!

This WORKED for us and fixed our issue!! Thank you for posting and for your efforts!!

I followed your instructions to the letter and it wasn’t bad, except for that back screw, which is exceedingly difficult to reach. On that screw, I found that the ratchet was only needed to loosen the first couple of threads (and tighten the last couple of threads after replacing the motor). I used the 5/16 socket in my hand and was able to loosen and tighten with my fingers holding the socket more easily than with the ratchet in that very small space. Also, I did not have a 9/32 socket so I used 7mm on the other screws and that worked fine. Thank you very much for this excellent video!

I removed mine, turned on the heater to realign the gears ... Still made the clicking noise. FML! I am not looking for the second one. I guess dual temp controls means two of these fuckers! I had to grind my socket to half the size to get the motor out and I can't see another one. I'll live with the clicking noise until I buy a newer truck. Great video and instructions. Thank you.

Hi there. Just want to thank you for the great video. I swapped mine out today. Under 1hr. Thanks again.

It’s been a while since you posted this video, was wondering if I could ask a question or 2

Great Video. That you for the instructions. Suggest you let people know that they may have to recalibrate the blend control after installing a new actuator. On my 2014 STX I had to remove the hvac control fuse from the inside fuse panel and reinstall it. Then start the engine with AC on and it recalibrates.

excellent tutorial, thank you friend.

Great video And....my address is......LOL

Make sure you do a reset on the blend door motor after install by pulling fuse for at least 1 min. 2009-2010 fuse 15, 2011-2014 fuse 46

Do you manually turn the actuator to line up teeth ?

Is it true story??

Awesome video and saved me hundreds of dollars (and a day or two at the shop). I ultimately used a 5/16" closed end wrench for the back bolt. Left hand fingertips over the middle top to hold the open end wrench down on the bolt. And right hand to pull the wrench handle for torque. About a third of a turn. Then, push the wrench up into the left hand. Reposition it, hold it down. And right hand to turn the bolt. Rinse and repeat until you get that back bolt pretty loose (5-10 minutes for me. Lastly with the left hand fingers holding the bolt from falling out and into the dashboard gravity abyss and I twisted the bolt with my right hand fingers, until it was out with three fingers to grasp the loose bolt and save it from the gravity abyss darkness behind the dasbboard depths. Remove unit. Gently unplug wire connector. Mistake: I kept the car running for the project so i could enjoy the AC and burned my right hand a few times with something hot top right behind the dashboard. Replaced actuator (Ford part for this job) and screwed the bolts in the same way. The back bolt with 5/16 took me about 5-10 minutes to twist the bolt in place. Put the electric clip back on. Twist down the front bolt back down into a pretty tight position (without breaking plastic. )

If the air is only blowing out of the defrost vents no matter where it is selected then which actuator would that be? Has a loud and continuous clicking in the dash and sounds like it is coming from the passenger side behind the glovebox

Take the damn key out instead of speaking over the dinging sound

Good video. For the back screw, I had an old circular saw wrench that fit the screw. I cut end off so it was an open end wrench, then cut big end off, slightly too short, then bent wrench in a backward L shape with the small leg of L approximately 1/2" The angle of the small L was an approximately 15° back angle. I was able to reach from the front. I'm thinking you may be able to buy a circular saw wrench at harbor freight.

Nice story l love it

What Actuator controls the temperature from hot to cold. I have AC but no heat, would it be upper or lower?

Was crying,Amen...

I seen that same story but was a Chinese Dr 😂😂😂. Who told that story first? 😂😂😂. This has me rolling. I’m like I’ve seen this before. Went from a Dr. Wu to Dr. Kelley 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

That bolt in the back was a bear. I got so fed up with it I just ripped the actuater out. Luckily it left the back bolt in place,and then I had lots of room to get it out. New part ships Tommorrow

I would have given him a bowl of porridge or some soup with a nice drink, if I had known. I may have even treated him to a meal out, the expense being on me...

Do NOT get the part from Ford or AutoZone. They charge upwards to $50 bucks. You can get the part either by going to your local junkyard or order it through Amazon for $17.00.

Will this keep ac from working. Just took it to shop and they said this is not what's keeping it from blowing cold air.

great help- the background noise is annoying tho

Beautiful story

Very inspiring story. Thank you for sharing... Inspiring True Story of Kindness th-cam.com/video/Yoa6CuZw-mo/w-d-xo.html

McJ, I can't thank you enough for this video. I'd like to buy you a 12-pack of your favorite beer! But, for now, I'll buy me my favourite beer, Sierra Nevada Torpedo, and drink them in salute to you. Huge thanks for posting this!! My 2011 F-150 EcoBoost started this clicking noise when I would turn the heat control fully off, all the way counter-clockwise. Annoying, but just a slight tick clockwise and it stopped, so I was living with it. Then, 3 days ago, I had to replace my battery. When I was done with the new battery installation this starting clicking constantly! Extremely annoying! So I searched for help and found your video. Honestly, your video is excellent! Showing how to remove the trim parts and radio to gain access, then showing how to reach in thru glove box for that back screw gave me the confidence to do this. I live in Ocala, Florida and summer is coming, so I won't be wanting ANY heat coming in, so replacing this had to be done. Plus, the constant clicking was simply unbearable! I've completed the part replacement, everything is back together, working, and the clicking noise is gone! I'm guessing it took me about 2 hours to complete this. LOL, I don't work fast anymore, I'm slowing down. Note: my F150 used metric sockets, 7mm and 8mm. Also, I used a small screwdriver to release the red lock on the plug. I pressed too hard, it popped out and fell. I heard it fall down... never to be seen again. The electrical plug does snap in, I hope it stays in! My biggest fear was that I was going to drop that back screw. I didn't, but it's like a black hole on the backside of that ductwork. It would have been gone! And I'm sure it would have rattled just to annoy me. I may call my dealer to see what they charge for this job. From what others say, I may need to buy you a dozen 12-packs!! Sorry for the long, rambling comment. Thanks again...

This story is in my 12th Class Hindi lesson 😛

Very inspiring story. Thank you for sharing...

Thank you very much for such an instructive video, can you tell me what number does the tool I use?

Never get tired of this Powerful movie...✊👨‍🏫👨‍🎓 Carpe Diem...yes!

This worked out great. I instead of going through the glove box, ground down a 5/32 socket and ratched the back screw from the front. This was a great help, thanks for the video!!!!

its a 7 & 8 mm sockets. nothing on this truck is sae, friggn 9/32 lol

is the acrew 7mm or 8mm

Great Video, Thanks! For me, a small box end wrench was easier for the back screw as my 1/4 inch drive socket was too high to get on the screw. There is just enough room to get your right hand in thorough the glove box area. Give it a try, you won't be disappointed! Good Luck!

Never use Dorman blend doors. Unless you want to change it 4 times