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Lubrication is each year or if it starts to be noisy. Replacing the seal (volvo black jack) I am not sure, but I have not replaced it yet, had the boat for eight years. I have been thinking on replacing it, and will plan to do it for next season. Feels a bit scary to disconnect the shaft from the engine, and I assume it will be a struggle. And as always in boats, almost impossible to reach. I will try to temember to get hold of a new one, and of course record the replacement

​@@petera9757 I've read that you have to squeeze it to take the air out when you send the boat back to water. So if it's rock hard and can not be squeezed, it's time to replace. So i will buy one just in case and when the boat goes back to water we'll see... Guess what volvo stopped the production of the reference i look for (828416) i'll have to see which reference replaces it ! I've seen some videos on how to disconnect and replace the gland, it doesn't look hard but the access is another subject and every boat job lolokks easy and is finally a struggle lol

@@boardelia yes venting out the air, or rather filling the tunnel with water is essential both from lubrication and cooling perspective. I have never had any problems with that. I think what happens when it gets old it starts to leak more. Since I still have not built any bilgepump meter to keep track of the running time, I do not really know how much, but gut feel is it is not much. And still drip free at idle.

​@@boardeliayes. The squeezing before going back into water is called burping. If the stuffing box is hard, it needs replacing.

@@ChallengeTheNarrative Problem is, the new one i bought is as hard as the old one ...

The corrosion and biology will of course also cause inbalance, but I agree that on a powerboat you might not use a 43-year old propeller.

@@petera9757 Of course if you were planning to set a new World Water Speed record in you 40+ year old boat, I'm sure you would have taken the time to check how many microns thick each blade was, how many grams you had removed and making sure you did not alter the profile of each blade in any way. I'm also convinced you would have made sure that any sanding marks all ran in exactly the same direction so as to guarantee the prop gave a perfectly symmetrical amount of propulsion with each revolution. However, I suspect you thought ' hmmmm, Jim's talking bollocks, its a 40 year old boat, not really built to race against a jet boat, also the prop is covered in sea life and is probably as much out of balance already as a sailor after a night ashore and two bottles of jack Daniels, I doubt it would make even the tiniest of a difference if I use a polishing disc on it, so heck that's what I will do'. However, I strongly recommend you take Jim's advice and any planned high speed stuff, you make sure that prop is as finely tuned as is humanly possible.

IDIOT, you think he doesn't know that, its not a power boat its a sail boat so why even raise the issue. I have however given Petera9757 some useful advice and suggested he take on board your knowledgeable comments.

@@Mikeandlucy1 Yes, I do this mainly for fuel economy not speed. And even if I am only polishing, I am of course removing the corroded material so the blades continously get thinner. I would argue that the corroded but non polished blades would have the same or at least very similar history. It is absolutely getting close to replacing the propeller, which I am sure will be a nightmare as I do not know if it has ever been taken off. Big puller and lots of heat will be needed I am sure, but I dare not try without having a new propeller ready.

Please share the knowledge, I have not invented the knot. Even knots I have come up with myself, I assume already exist :-) Of course I appreciate a link to my video, it will also provide people with alternative views of it making it easier to understand. This knot is still a bit magic to me, so simple, and extremely useful for adjusting the length of things. Very environmental friendly if we for instance could get rid of those small pieces of plastics on the lines of tents.

Jag använde inte kraftigare saker än om man skulle monterat en lampa eller större tavla så jag frågade inte. Men det är ju viktigt att inte borra för nära kanter och hörn så klart. Fråga är säkert bra, men stor risk man hamnar hos någon som inte kan eller vet och får ett nej för det är enklast. Men oavsett så blir du ju ansvarig för det du gör.

Thanks. One of those basic things that seams forgotten by so many. We do not need special equipment for everything, sometimes a knot will do it (there are several examples where knots actually is better than special components in many occasions, not to mention they are more environmental friendly, and you always have them at hand) :-)

Good to hear, thanks. Good luck with your build.

I do not know the brand, there was only one type of polishing disks at the store. This was a 115 mm disk, and there were mainly two types: the grinding ones, which has like laminated sand paper (do not use these, they will grind away the metal), and then they had the polishing type I used, which instead has pads, a bit soft, like the scotch brite pads. I doubt we have the same brands here in Sweden anyway, but if you ask for something to polish metal you should find the right thing. It had three levels of roughness as well I think, I believe I used the medium one. I have also used it on stainless, after having cut and grind it, to polish it up to perfect shine.

I used a thin metal wire and kind of sew it in place. The easy part, but takes some time of course.

Glad to be of help. Yes, it does not take many minutes to do. For many years I did not use an anode, but used the propeller to protect the engine, so it corroded quite a lot each year, so polishing was essential. Now I use an anode, but I still polish it. The fixed propeller I have is not very expensive (although a bit hard to find as it is counter clockwise) so not so worried I might be wearing it down. But with the polishing disk, I am not really takin any metal off.

Jag valde att bygga buren av wire eftersom det inte enkelt gick att bygga träram och fästa, samt att en wireram syns mindre. Bygg och rapportera hur det gick.