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Gary Giglio
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 12 มี.ค. 2012
วีดีโอ
Ironhead Transmission Removal 2
มุมมอง 15K8 ปีที่แล้ว
Removing transmission as to inspect after failure
Ironhead Transmission Removal 1
มุมมอง 3.1K8 ปีที่แล้ว
Removing 1968 Ironhead transmission after failure. Part 1.
No way I could wrench on a bike wearing a big floppy watch. Hellava nice bike.
Weird for some reason this doesn't have any audio for me but your part 2 does
I’m sorry for that. TH-cam pulled the audio due to a copyright infringement with music I was playing in the background. I don’t know how to correct it.
@@garygiglio6359 yeah I don't know. Maybe there's a way to at least put in the closed captions for what you said
This guys driveng me nutz every thing Is a long slow story holy shit man he would never work a harley dealership he's slower than molasses . on and on . keep talking I need a long nap
So what did you end up doing ? It's such a shame to see that happen to a classic motor . I have the same motor in mine 68XLCH kicker only . would love to see an update these vids are a year ago now
Hey brother, I taught myself how to TIG weld and I started repairs on the case I’ve split the motor I’ve torn everything down. I haven’t produced video in quite some time but I’m going to try to start again this winter. I’ll let you know when I post my very next video, it’s probably going to be covering, some of the repairs I’ve already done and showing the new primary shut up with a custom compensator and extended case as to allow for more oil. Thank you for your comment. I appreciate your time and attention.
Time for a open primary. I hope it all worked out for ya.
Not often a primary chain lets go. I guess these ironheads are gettin up there in years though.
Once I tore it all down, I found that one of the four bolts in the transmission trap door came out my fault. I must’ve neglected to put retaining compound on it.
I have a set of ‘59 XLH crankcases which suffered a similar fate at some point (bottom side blown out) and patched back together with JB Weld. My engine builder (who is a fantastic aluminum welder) cut all that out, gabbed a replacement chunk and welded it back together. You can’t tell it was repaired.
Need a karate 3 inch belt drive and dry clutch
Gary, is it possible to TIG those case cracks instead of drilling holes to prevent propagation? Or is the case shot after something like that?
The best way to repair those would be to TIG weld them, you are correct. I am currently in the process of doing just that. I have another video showing some catastrophic damage to the primary side case. I purchased a TIG welder and taught myself how to use it. I will be posting footage of those repairs soon.
Mine were tig welded and held up fine
Horrible.
No sound ?
I was playing some music in the background and TH-cam considered it “copyright infringement and cut the soundtrack
What year is your bike Gary??
It’s a 1968 XLCH 55.
following, itd be nice to see the process of repair.
I plan on posting a video covering up to date repairs and outlining the plan moving forward. The last year or so has us barely catching our breath. The shop is up and functioning but it’s been slow moving. I appreciate you taking the time to watch and contact me. I will post within the next couple of weeks. Thanks again.
@@garygiglio6359 thank u
horrid; maybe its time for a open belt drive, though i think theyre hard to come by, horrid..hope the cracks aint into the crank house..
Someone who is good with a tig welder / case repairs should be able to fix that ..... I've seen worse .
Thank you for watching, I appreciate the optimism. I bought all the replacement parts and a TIG welder and started the repairs. It has been a while since I’ve done any work on it, Covid and a move of residence has killed any progress. I plan on posting video of the progress soon. Thanks again.
Good luck bro
Thank you, I have started repairs in the middle of moving and as soon I’m settled in I will post more video.
Sorry for the bad luck, that is a real nice bike. Do you think the adjuster could have come apart and jammed the chain?
Thanks brother, I think one of the transmission door bolts came out and got caught up in the chain and sprocket.
@@garygiglio6359 I saw that in your second video. that makes sense.
Gorgeous bike. Even with pieces of the case gone.
Thank you Brother, I appreciate that.
I have a guy that want to sell his 66 xlch 900... 3600 orig miles. Needs head gasket he says. Been in garage 20 years
WOW… do you know what he wants for it?
@@garygiglio6359 I will check. Has orig tank and seat but other tank and seat on it now. In north Carolina garage.
I might have a 1969/70 900 sporty motor that's a builder . In a box. I can let go for cheap . If you need it no papers. Motor dropped a valve..i picked up motor for my daughter to build. It's been sitting for about 5 years
there was a video i saw on youtube.. guy had same problem but worse damage. destroyed tranny cases beyond repair. but motor was fine. he shaved the cases behind his motor and married it to a shovelhead tranny. ran open belt primary. worked great
I saw something like that too… got me thinking. Someone referred to it as “divorcing the transmission “ There’s a good chance of going in that direction. I’m going to get back to the bike project soon, I’m in the middle of 68 corvette project now. Thanks for your interest and your comments, I appreciate you taking the time.
Split the cases, do it right. You'll never be able to get it clean enough to weld on or get it in the right position to weld if you don't split the cases.
I did wind up splitting the cases after-all. I agree with you on it being the proper way to go.
@@garygiglio6359 I do a lot of crankcase repair, if I can help in any way let me know. I saw that damage and my mind immediately began thinking about how I'd repair it.
Great bike ...l feel your pain .
Dude--I feel for ya. I broke the rear rod on a '67 FLH back in the '80's. Eight inch hole in the backside of the cases and that was just the beginning. I still have them and the broken rod. Built an 88 inch stroker with STD cases for that bike.
Bet that Stroker sounded amazing. I started repairs on the case and have all the replacement parts as well. I talked the wife into a TIG welder and all the kit to go with it. The Rona has interrupted progress but I’ll be back at it soon. I will record and post where I’m at in the repairs in a few weeks. Thanks for checking me out and your comments Brother… cheers.
@@garygiglio6359 I have an Aerospace Machinist background with metal fab experience. TIG has always been a favorite. Retired, I sure do miss the equip I had access to at work. Cast alum is porous and saturates with oil, big-time contaminate : ( I have made vibratory cleaning tanks (2) powered by palm sanders with sanding pad removed (regulated by router speed control) and used Purple Power for my cleaning agent. AWESOME results!! Need to build 1 more, big enough for the larger right side case to fit. Another project...
That sucks looks like an expensive fix
time to break out the welder or make yourself a divorced ironhead chopper
I have been down this road before but it is fixable just take your time my friend
Thank you Brother, I appreciate your encouragement
I definitely can hear the disappointment in your voice, however you may locate a good left motor case or complete motor in the future off a parts bike if you keep looking. I’ve seen some on eBay. I would hate to see you hang the bike up!
Really sorry to see that happen. My routine is to take the primary cover off my 1968 XLCH and do a visual every spring and during the riding season pull the small inspection plate and check the chain tension every 500 miles or less. I’m very surprised that chain went to pieces like that, what brand was it??? I’m curious. Those clutch baskets normally have a little side to side play but nothing that severe. That being said, I’m surprised you didn’t hear any mechanical noise from the primary to warn you well in advance something was loose? Again, I’m really curious what brand of primary chain broke into pieces like that? I’m very sorry to see this happen to you… it’s a nightmare all us XLCH owners have in the back of our minds!
Thank you for your kind words. The primary chain was diamond brand but it was not the chain that failed on its own. After further break-down I found one of the transmission trap door bolts missing. That bolt came loose and got caught up in the chain causing it to break along with some teeth on the main sprocket and the clutch basket. I have a second video that covers the missing bolt. Thank you for watching. I appreciate your time and attention. I have made some repairs to the case and plan to share the continued repairs and modifications thus far in a video or two coming soon. Thanks again.
@@garygiglio6359 hopefully everything works out for you, what caused the bolt to come loose like that??? Was it caused by under tightening or no lock tight??
@@Johnclark300 it was completely my fault. I failed to use a retaining compound on that bolt. The last time I rebuilt the transmission I used thread inserts for all four trap door bolts and thought I locked them down. There was as no evidence of retaining compound anywhere in or around that bolt hole.
Hey Gary been watching your videos on the transmission and I’m wondering what manual do you suggest I buy because my transmission I’m pretty sure a shot I got ran out of oil so I’m gonna have to learn how to rebuild one or at least what to look for Great videos I’m learning a lot watching your videos thank you very very much
You are welcome Scott. I have a digital manual that I use, I could try emailing you files from it. I also use the resources from “The XL Forum”. I joined years ago and it has been a great resource for information. Keeping an old Ironhead alive takes a village. I would love to help if I can.
The sound was removed by TH-cam because of the music playing in the background
no sound :(
I noticed it looks like you are also missing the pawl spring retainer plugs. Mine are missing too.
Tell me about your springer front end and handle bars
I bought the springer front from DNA through EBay along with the shock. The shock is important for a solid feel. I read a lot of negative reviews of DNA springer front ends but I have been very happy. It’s been 10 years with it and no issues. The bars are standard drag bars with 6” rise.
You should purchase a nylon primary drive lock. Not a good idea to jam steel in the sprockets like that. Nifty tool nonetheless.
BE NICE TO KNOW DIMENSIONS ON THOSE PLATES AND SPACERS
The plates are made from 1-1/4x1/8in. flate stock cut to 3-1/2in. long. The spacers are 3/4in. round stock cut to 1-1/2in. long and I am using 1/2in. grade 8 bolts 2-1/2in.long. The holes are 1/2in.drilled 3/4in. on center from each end.
Thanks bro
First time I did this I pulled it out and all the shims gears everything went all over the floor what a FUCKING BITCH getting it set back up TRULY a real BITCH
Thanks a lot for the quick and detailed reply!
What did you make your tools out of?
I took an old friction disc and steel disc and bolted them together as to replicate Harley part; 97175-55 "Clutch Lock Plate" I then took some 1-1/4 flat stock and 11/16 tube stock to replicate Harley part; 97200-55 "Sprocket Locking Link" You can reference these tools on page 4T-2 in your service manual. I hope I answered your question. I appoligize for the delay in answering you, your question went to my "Spam" folder.
"Locking Tool"; The plates are made from 1-1/4x1/8in. flate stock cut to 3-1/2in. long. The spacers are 3/4in. round stock cut to 1-1/2in. long and I am using 1/2in. grade 8 bolts 2-1/2in.long. The holes are 1/2in.drilled 3/4in. on center from each end. The "Clutch Basket Lock" is made by simply bolting together 1 old friction disc and 1 old clutch plate. The two bolted together when placed into the clutch basket locks the outer basket to the inner clutch hub. When using the two tools together you immobilize the entire primary drive as to loose or tighten the PTO nut and/or the clutch hub bolt.
Great video...thanks for sharing. Cool bike btw
Thank you Brad, I appreciate you taking the time to comment.
Thank you
How did this all work out for you in the end? A lot of money spent?
It turned out that the reason I could not get constant measurements was that the main-shaft was bent. The play in the shift pawl was inconsequential. I replaced the main-shaft and the transmission functioned properly. Thank you for your question. I hope I was helpful.
I just picked up a 1979 XLH Sportster 1000 and would love to recreate the rear end you did on this bike. If you are willing to share any info (type and length of shocks, frame mods, etc.) that would help me out that would be great. How comfortable is the ride?
What do you need to know Paul? Maybe I can help.
damn. this video might have the info im looking for. but no sound
Yep , same here.
Man youtube. It's the damn radio. File a report to youtube so we can get some sound here