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@@crowbar3157 it starts off as a lets do this to see what it's like after cleaning. There was a layer of muck inside. The project turned out to be several days of a job rather than the quick look I had anticipated. It started with one of the end caps being crossthreaded taking a lot of heat, and 3/4" drive socket with 6ft cheater bar!

Yep, sold as 10mm pea gravel in the UK.

The heavy pitting at the bottom made the decision for me. I've since bought a new tank and had it galvanised. I'd guess the metal fatigue on an airframe is the biggest risk.

Some felt full but think it's the weight of the steel throwing off my judgement. £2 worth of scrap I think. I was tempted to grab a couple of the boxes for posting stuff.

@@ianhelsbyservices The car parks at the beacon used to be full of the small silver canisters which go with these, but it was in the paper they were cracking down on selling these to minors and it must've worked as they have since dried up.

@@mongrel-starcomics.109 i watched a video clip showing an interview of a girl that would administer 100 of those small canisters each day. She swapped to the larger ones to have better control of how much she was using yet ended up at significantly higher dose. From a distance, the blue ones are steel and not worth much. The aluminium ones which look grey/silver are 50p scrap each, worth collecting if you already weigh metals in.

@@ianhelsbyservices Like I say, I hardly see the little ones anymore but there was a time they were all over the beacon car parks.

Tricky as you've gotta use wheels/rollers with a large diameter to clear the swinging bits!

Hi, thanks for your words of wisdom. Those heavy pitted areas put me off. I've since bought a new tank. From what I understand they usually leak from rust rather than explode like the videos show.

Hi, The motor is from a washing machine, so around 1/2 HP. The tank has a diameter of 15" going to a 2" pulley on the midshaft with a washing machine motor pulley of 14" which then terminates at the motor's 1" pulley. I think the motor is running full speed at 1400 rpm, dropped down to tumble the drum at 30 or so rpm.

Hi Andy, The key to it's success is the pivoting reducing axle so both belts are tensioned in one maneuver! Have you spotted the other video uploaded today?

Hahaha yeah bro totally, I love rust contamination in my air, and buying expensive filters to frequently replace, just to remove the rust contamination coming from the tank itself!! Probably no one exists using compressed air for anything that requires clean air because I don't!!

Hi Larry, used some pea gravel as shown in another video on TH-cam: pSFr4hJZPn0 Seemed to clean quite well inside but showed some pitting in places that appeared to be 50% of the thickness of the tank. I think the tanks are likely to slow leak rather than explode. I couldn't reuse this as one of the end caps had been cross threaded and wouldnt seal when pressure testing it.

Probably an idea to screw the new end on as far as I can to the bad threads then braze it in place permanently.

@@ianhelsbyservices They don't slowly leak., they explode. There are plenty of videos about compressor tanks explosions. Check this one out... th-cam.com/video/sm_FJ6Pat4I/w-d-xo.html

I rotated for 2 hours horizontal (1hr each clockwise, 1hr anticlockwise) Then tipped one side up so the level of the water reached just below the end holes and ran for an hour for each side.

This is a pretty epic device Ian. Space and time are the only things that we need in life! The rest falls into place.

@@bootsowen a shame one of the large ends had been cross threaded in it's previous life. New fitting couldn't get a seal even after cleaning threads with a thread file. New tank bought which I want to have galvanised before putting into service. Lots of people say just use it and replace when necessary, but these people have large disposable incomes.

@@ianhelsbyservices if it’s a choice between throwing it out because of the crossed threads why not just weld it? Or have it welded?

@@bootsowen certainly a possibility. The end caps at this size (1.5" BSP) are cast steel/iron so not sure about welding. Perhaps braze it on. I've since bought a new tank (150L £360) and had it galvanised (£100).

It's not too bad as the VFD brings up the speed of the motor slowly. I could lengthen the time but havent had an issue yet. There wasn't a way to power the oil pump with the motor as the auxilliary switch on the VFD is missing on my version. Mine does seem to leak from the worm drive as the motor tray has an amount of oil in it now. You're right that the stone is a bit low. The raised edge part of the cast top all around stops you from sharpening machine blades on it. Perhaps when new the stone is above this level? Another downside is you can't sharpen really short chisels and keep the 1.5" stickout beyond the chisel holder. I'm glad you've got yours operational.

Your T joint Idea sounds plausible. Liquid flows the path of least resistance so you may need a narrower pipe going back to the tank. Experiment and see. I had thoughts of using an inline brass valve threaded inbetween the top of the machine and the drip tube so you could fine tune the resistance. I think pumps like that should be OK with restriction as when fitted to old cars they continue to pump even when the carbeurettor is full.

See the short followup video covering the oil delivery system. We opted for a Chinese VFD on this machine as they were at a good price at the time. The stone has a dip across the full width otherwise seems to run OK. The tool holder also needed slight adjustment (twisting) so it would grind as close to 90° across the blade as possible.

@@ianhelsbyservices Hi Ian, I have indeed watched that video too. I used to have two Sharpedge machines but both were in bad order when I got them so I sold them on. I have a chance of another but in good condition so may take it on? I won't using it to sharpen chisels, it will be a surface grinder for small parts. Top regards, Jon.

Cheers for making the video,very invented on pump, Your oil looks toffee looking I thought cutting oil meant to be clear, and looks abit thick, What oil have you used? I know that there is a minral oil for cars but I don`t think its the same stuff to use is it. Is that pump much quiter

Havev you got yours running at 230v using a 3 phase original motor, if so did you buy a converter, or rewire and use a capacitor

@@piecetoyou8285 the pump is quieter than the sound of the chisel being sharpened. The honing oil is quite thin as you need it to soak into the stone.

@@piecetoyou8285 we bought a Chinese 0.75KW VFD off Amazon for £27.19 delivered. Works great with the original Hoover motor

Okay ive got the oil and got the pump and a switching adaptor 100-240v 50-60hz 0.7A Output +9v dc 1.5A can i wire this into my push button machanical off and on switch that drives my single phase 240v electrical motor Or do I have to run the adaptor that runs my pump on its own seperate plug,? My off and on switch that my single phase electric motor runs from can handle 320v, .

@@piecetoyou8285 Apologies for not getting in touch sooner. We powered our pump from a bench power supply at different voltages and chose 8V as it sounded smoothest. The supply told us what current was being drawn so I bought a 8V 3A supply. Your 9V 1.5A may work. You'll have to see if it supplies enough power. I'd wire the mains side of your 9V supply in parallel with the motor at the switch. Our VFD has a space for auxiliary power but not populated in the model we bought so had to wire 8V supply to mains input which goes live when socket turned on.

@@ianhelsbyservices (QUESTION 1) So your saying ` run both the 9v power adaptor if man enough and electric motor from the same 13amp 3 pin plug that goes into the wall socket, so when I switch it on from the wall socket switch` the pump comes on only, Then the electric motor comes on once I press my off and on machanical push button switch that has been screwed on to the outer body of the machine, but only if they draw 13 amp or less between them once running ` this would be fine, is that what you mean.? Or from the off and on button on the same connectors the electric motor wires are connected to,so when I press the off and on button on the body of the machine both come on at the same time,? (QUESTION 2) As my adaptor is higher voltage but lower amp than what yours is but yours seams to pump more oil out than mine is that because yours being 3 amp wheres mine is a 1.5 amp? even though mines 9v and yours is 8volt. (QUESTION 3) Have you wired up your door catch to stop power when door is open as it would break the circuit or did you just dissconect it entirely, If you had wired it up ` do you just have the live going in and back out or the nutral going in and back out or one live and one nutral,? Why I ask this is because I am not confortable having a electricity going in that door switch then having a bear metal catch clipping into the door,` is it safe, I am not sure if the voltage was stepped down befor entering the door catch to a safer level,? No need to apologise you don`t have to reply, we all have our lives to live and busy ones at that these days, but I would like a quick response to these questions ASAP please lol 😂 if possible

@@piecetoyou8285 hi. My late replies are due to not getting notification from TH-cam and then forgetting to check myself. Yes to the first two questions. Your pump is probably maxing out the power supply so less oil delivered. Worth feeling the power supply for heat. If it's staying cool and looks like enough oil is getting to the stone then leave it as is. My pump powers on whenever the unit is plugged in and motor is on seperate switch. As yours is a single phase motor I'd power the pump and motor together. The manual recommends running the machine for 10mins without sharpening so the oil saturates the stone. Door safety switch disabled. My Sharpedge also came with a mushroom shape foot operated shut off button as it came from a school.

I'll get some footage of what ours looks like. From what I remember ours had the bearing too for smooth operation over the cam but it didn't seem to move the lever enough to sctually pump. The pipework in ours had been modified to include an extra drain point under the gearbox but all that did was allow the pump to suck air instead of oil.

@@ianhelsbyservices Ah thanks for the heads up, Ye ` if the fluid drains quicker from the top under the gear box than what the pump is pushing it on to the stone` then this would be an issue, The whole fluid mechanism can`t be allowed to have a break in the fluid, if the top drains to slow and over fills then I would look where the issue is, possibly blockages or a sh-t design or pump allowing air in from a weak point and not pushing enough oil` ill make my own oil system that works better, I removed the stone and noticed all the shite around the edge and over the drain hole, if the path to the oil becomes restricted or the crap has entered the tank on the inside and restricting the flow in there, either way I need it put together and buy some antibacterial cutting fluid and see how it functions to find any issues, look forwards to footage,any think will hep and thank`s for your time

@@piecetoyou8285 th-cam.com/video/DcRdBEnXTLA/w-d-xo.html for the new video. Mine drains just fine back into the tank. During the fix up I didn't notice any oil seaping through the gearbox so the drain underneath is dangling into the motor tray. The drain out of the trap under the gearbox is too low to go into the side mounted tank. My uncle says the one he used at school when teaching didn't have the tank at the side, just two hoses that were put into a bottle of oil.

Perhaps a build up of grind sludge blocking the outlet for the tank. The stone is geared down so not huge starting torque as seen in the video when VFD drive ramps up to full rate. Motor-run type will be fine. Try and keep the 1400 rpm. We replaced the car-type mechanical pump with a 12v Chinese diaphragm type as ours came without the cam. Home-made cam was too noisy. Hoses replaced too as original stiff and wouldn't seal.

@@ianhelsbyservices thank you for quick reply and info

Leave your chisel in a single position on the stone and you'll create a groove in the stone which'll hinder sharpening plane (wide) blades in the future! It'll weigh around 100kg. Will update this messsage when I measure it's dimensions.

@@ianhelsbyservices Cheers ,

@@piecetoyou8285 hi, sorry for the delay. 52 cm wide, 64 cm deep, and 90 cm tall. It's generally box shaped except for the chisel holder pivot at the front.

It's both. Valves beside cylinders, cylinder head is low & flat. It's also L-Head & Valve-In-Block.

It goes the opposite way so you don’t catch the blade and have force on the arm etc

@@michaelking2910 so why does mine go the other way as in the manual? It's going backwards

@@fuzzzeballs it’s possible to change the direction

@@michaelking2910 yeh by wiring the motor the wrong way

@@fuzzzeballs your very against it sent you clearly you know everything I’ll leave it as I can’t be asked to argue about it have a good day 🥱

Email reply from registrar: The Pop AMY 353 does not appear on the Club database, neither is it recorded at DVLA. If it went to Ireland as Mr. Braithwaite says it did it will now be registered under a different (Irish) number. Unless this number is known the only way to trace it is through the chassis number - if this can be obtained we can have another look. In the probability that nobody knows this we would then try to locate the old Middlesex registers. MY and AMY are Middlesex County. If the registers still exist (Middlesex County Record Office would be a start) the chassis number would be given in there. Depends how dearly he wants to know, but that's the route forward. Does he remember what year the car was registered? My Glasses Guide is of little use listing AMY being issued from 1932 in blocks to 1963 - no more accurate than that.

Thankyou Ian for your response,Seems that its unlikely that I can trace the car,,But got your recommendations.Maybe there’s a car pop out there for sale,I’m too old to carry out work now if needed on a Pop. Amy 353 was a project I done 20 years ago,when I was fit lol,now in my late 70s.cheers.

We bought some honing oil for it, fairly thin yellow stuff. Our pump also didn't have much bant. The cam on the motor's driveshaft only moved about 1mm if that. I made a new cam using some 1/8" mild steel. A little noisy but works now.

To help you the pump is an AC type Y, exactly the same as a Morris minor fuel pump, if it's not pumping very well move the motor a mm or 2 closer to the pump, should work a thousand times better, it should ha a constant flow

@@NottsAndDerbyLHG39-45 cheers for that information I'll have to give that ago next time I'm in work be nice to have the whole thing working again.

@@thedragonreaper no problem, just restoring a pair myself, the pumps are about £20 new so if push comes to shove that's your answer, but Tbh there isn't much to go wrong with the pumps as they're just a diafram

@@NottsAndDerbyLHG39-45 I've recently fitted a 12v electric pump running at 8v to get the right flow rate and renewed the pipework. Works great now. I'd have loved to get one that has all the bells and whistles including attachment for machine blades but they seem hard to come by.