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Husqvarna Training
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 6 ก.ค. 2015
วีดีโอ
Automower Technical training video part I
มุมมอง 2.5K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Information, tips and tricks related to the Automower line maintenance
Automower technical training video part II
มุมมอง 1.3K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Information, tips and tricks related to the Automower line maintenance
Virtual video Brainshark part I
มุมมอง 892 ปีที่แล้ว
This video shows technical related tips and tricks on almost all Automower series, from the 115H to the 435X AWD.
115H Installation
มุมมอง 3.6K2 ปีที่แล้ว
this video is about all the necessary steps to install a 115H Automower
Gentrans RS800 Inspection and Warranty Checklist
มุมมอง 4.1K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Gentrans RS800 Inspection and Warranty Checklist
Autotune Chainsaw Hot Restart Procedure
มุมมอง 37K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Autotune Chainsaw Hot Restart Procedure
Two stage snow thrower auger belt replacement
มุมมอง 33K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Two stage snow thrower auger belt replacement
Top view would be better as I have no idea what your setting this down on. Still glad I got the kit.
You need a whole different kit for each chain size, not just the file?
This was not a complete disassembly
The depth file part is confusing, so I place the back of the gauge on the tooth behind it?
My Husqvarna has this transmission. 146 hours and no reverse
Thank you!
I have a 372 Husqvarna and it is always a bear to get re-hot started. I wouldn’t trade it though because it is the most powerful saw I’ve ever owned. Cuts through two foot oak like butter.
I was very disappointed when it didn't sound like T-Pain
722 hours and the K46 in my 2015 Cub Cadet is still running fine, even mowing on somewhat hilly terrain. (even used for plowing snow for 6 winters) It's oil replaced every 2 years with synthetic 5W-40 diesel oil. Also making sure the cooling fan isn't damaged and the fins clean.
My 2023 mower lasted 33 hours before the 3 of the springs in the pistons broke and tore up the pump block. I wonder if they make more money selling transmissions or the parts to keep this junk working. If they were at all concerned about reliability there would be a drain plug and access to the filter. Cub Cadet said the tractor is a throw away by another.
This transmission is a pile of 💩
How can you release such a gearbox without a drain plug for changing the oil? A deliberate act to shorten the lifespan and force you to buy a new one.
While it's not as easy as a drain plug, you can change the oil by removing the transaxle from the tractor and draining it out of the fill port.
Have a 572xp and a 592xp/ never had any issues hot or cold.they start and then idle.next.the 592 is an animal.
200 hours on. My John Deere x300 and it’s toast. I agree junk.
And this little piggy made his gear box from plastic ...the big bad wolf said HHAAAA I'm not waisting my breath on this POS let it fall apart on it's own.
Not a great view from camera angles. Hard to learn from this
Poor video. Absolutely crap
FYI. If you’re using a 40:1 oil mixture, you will always periodically have starting issues. It leans the fuel mixture too much for the auto tune to compensate. Use a good synthetic oil like Klotz etc, and run 45-50:1, and your saw will be at its happiest.
C'est de la merde
It's been proven by many that pre-mixed gas is garbage for your chainsaw!
I just couldn’t see what he was doing close up.
Thanks it went well.
The k46 transaxle on my John Deere will not hold itself on a hill. To fix this I was curious with the adjusting bolt on the side of the transaxle is used for?
What should have been done is installed the drain plugs in the first place not hard to do but should have been done and a better filter design so you don't have to take it apart change the filter again not hard to do but it is a hassle if they had done that it would have been much easier for the average person to take better care of it but they just want you to throw it away and buy another one
I agree, easier oil change would help. I understand that John Deere puts 10W30 oil in trans at factory and that's too light anyway. I have the John Deere L 101 and it seems to me the whole thing is designed to fail in short order, the Briggs and Stratton motor is a hideous design with a large splash block on the crank. I would think a gear to gear drive would last much longer but could make shifting from forward to reverse more difficult.
For those wondering about the part number for this auger belt, it is HUS 501818201. I changed it recently on this sane machine and the size is 1/2” x 35.6” (some sources say 35.4” and 35.25” but I believe those are wrong). Prior to getting the correct belt I had purchased a 1/2” x 35” and although it fit, it was too small as the auger kept turning even when you released the auger controls (a safety NO NO) and it had a burning smell too so it’s important to get this correct belt I referenced above. Although I did not change the drive belt, that one is HUS 584216102 and the size of that one is 1/2” x 38.2”.
What f ing garbage
What’s the part number fir the auger belt? There are 2 that Ive found online
See my comment on this video about the correct part numbers.
Full Disassembly = This Is NOT FULL Disassembly = Its " Partial " disassemly = Outte r Hardware In fact
Do you have to slacken the two bolts you tightened?
I have the same machine and on mine those pivoting bolts were already tight so I just removed the bolts she did and split the machine. Then I put the same bolts back in and did nothing with the pivoting bolts. So to answer your question you should just make sure all bolts are tight and there’s no need to slacken those 2 pivoting bolts.
MVP @@newfie-dean5803
Just got done replacing my auger belt. My machine ST328P hydro is a rare model. It didn’t split in half after removing the bolts that hold the upper part together so l had to remove the pivots 🙆🏽♂️ l tell you this needed 2 people but l ended up doing it myself. Got the job done though, but a lil bit harder 😅 but it worked. Will test it tomorrow,am sure it’ll work though.
You should have installed all four bolts BEFORE you tighten them down to make sure all the holls line up
You do not need to tighten the belt?
The black poulie is a toghter i think
No, just make sure it’s routed correctly in front of the black plastic idler pulley as when you push down on the auger control that pulley pushes the belt tighter. Also, make sure the belt is fitted on the bottom pulley in the groove of the pulley and not over the brake (steel bracket) and on the top pulley make sure it’s under the steel bracket and in the track of the pulley. That upper steel bracket prevents the belt from coming off the top pulley.
@newfie-dean5803 My belt kept slipping off the pulleys. I originally thought that maybe the belt needed to be tightened. Then I had two belts snap back to back. Turns out I had aI had a bent impeller blade. Once fixed, I have not had any more problems. The winter up here in upper Michigan has been weird, so I have only used it one time, so it appears to be corrected, but I need to use it further to be sure.
que aceite o fluido lleva esta transmision en su interior?? se salio un reten y boto un poco, no lo veo como grasa, si no mas bien como un aceite, me ayduarian si alguein comenta!!
I don't own a Husqvarna and find it surprising the channel has so few subs.
Sucks to be you! Husqvarna is the best and #1 chainsaw made! Sorry dude!
do I have to add a claim through TH-cam?
I have an Ariens 20hp 46" (93608500) with this transaxle. I purchased it last year with only about 10 hours of use. It had been purchased as new old stock by a neighbor who then only used it part of a summer on a small yard. The transaxle doesn't even have actual seals for the axle shafts like some versions. Mine just has O-rings. It started leaking grease (OO grade) with 20 hours of total use. The paint wasn't even worn off the mower blades. I was second owner of it so could not pursue a warranty replacement. The axle shafts do not have bearings or bronze bushings. They wear directly into the plastic housing. I measured the wear in the housing at 0.072inch on one side and 0.057inch on the other at that time the leaks were discovered. The axle O-rings could not seal with that much movement. The axle shaft wear in the axle housing is significantly worse now after 2 summers of mowing I ended up drilling a hole into the housing and gluing a hose to the housing with epoxy so that I can refill the transaxle with grease when ever it decides to quit driving. I'd love to join a class action lawsuit over how deliberately a poor a design this transaxle is.
por faor considerarme en esa demanada colectiva, tengo el mismo problema desde Chile con un Poulan Pro pp2248La comprado nuevo!
Thank you for sharing. I’ve be having a hell of a time trying to get the axle out and now I see I’m wasting my time. Where do you get the grease from? Any specific name brand I should be looking for? Where exactly on the transmission did you put the hole with tube sealed with epoxy so you can add grease when required? I like that idea and want to do the same. Thanks in advance.
Full disassembly my ass. What a piece of overly complicated junk.
People really need to learn how to Maintain their appointment. I have one of these With probably over a 1000 hours on it And I Have Moved a F 150. It used to have a 21 horse single cylinder. Now it has A 810cc Vanguard Briggs and stradden. You can change the oil. You can take transexual out and tip it upside down. Or you can buy a cheap vacuum pump. That's $340. Give or take for a brand new pump And everything else you need. The people that say if they fail, you probably just needed to change the oil. Conventional oil. The one I have really likes 20 weight 50.
Exactly. Change the oil and if you push it harder than it's designed for change the oil more often. A few quarts of oil it's cheap compared to replacing a transmission. The same people that complain it's bad and don't last long are the same people that never do proper maintenance on their car and they use that every day.
no drain plug 🤣🤣🤣wtf....Tuff Torq = cheap shit
It's really not that hard to remove the transaction and tip it upside down For a cheap vacuum pump. $40 is better than 300 or a whole transaction.
Have one of these on a Toro XLS 380. The pedal jams between foward and reverse. Have to play with the pedal like a drummer in a rock band to go fwd and backward. Can't see anything obvious with the likeages and arms causing a problem. All I can say is if I knew at the time back in 2012 about these plastic transmissions I would never have bought the Toro. Too many plastic levers, springs, control cam, rods etc the things a bloody nightmare. Taryl is spot on about these pieces of junk! Anyone got any ideas as to what's going on, why the pedal jams between fwd and rev??
I’m dealing with the same thing on my craftsman LT3000. Lucky me I have the gas tank under the seat not the battery so no easy access. It looks relatively simple to drop the transmission to blow out all debris so that’s what I’m going to do.
K46 trans designed to last (designed to fail) after about 300 hours of use (you can get 600 hours here and there), then a rebuild kit is ~$500 May as well just get a new one, right? $750.... well, may as well just buy a new lawn mower if you'respending $700... its really a dumb thing to design things with such low service life. Oh... drain plugs are a "premium feature" 🤦♂️
"Respect the tightening torque" If you dont you will crack the plastic. What a joke.
I won't be buying a new tractor with one of those in it.
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Truth is there hell to keep it clean and having a air compressor is a must
Keep the top of trans clean and blow it out every time it’s used, that’s the best way to keep it working right
It's just...so beautiful...
What’s the part number for the kit
these are JUNK the worst you can buy , the people commenting on this !! what are they thinking ? these break down more than any other trans,,,, one more time !!! JUNK !!!
So….what are you trying to say ..that this is JUNK…..😊
Is the vent kit a necessary upgrade?
I would say yes. Especially if one works in hot weather when fire danger is high. Gas burping up thru air filter, one little spark and one has a fireball. Unlikely, but at least saw will not have gas coming out of orifices they are not suppose to.