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I don't remember much about that video but I'd guess I was talking about the kerf tape. It makes a huge difference in the tear out on the back side of your work piece. There are many factors that determine the amount of tear out you get but this kerf tape goes a long way to eliminating most of it.

That's where you control your gun safely and hit the target.

@@dymarke oh ok, right on. I like that 👍

Well it needs a 12v supply however you get it. You could run a line from the battery, you could use a separate battery and charge it occasionally or some vehicles have a 12v supply already in the back somewhere. One guy I knew ran his off the trailer plug. But one way or another is needs 12v.

@dymarke thank you

I don't understand your point. It's a review of first impressions, I even stated that in the description. Obviously I just purchased the product and am sharing my thoughts as I set it up and am first looking it over. But if you watch any of my other in shop videos you will see the drill press in the background, it is a well used tool that I would recommend. Merry Christmas

You are welcome. This controller does work well however after several months of use I would opt for the wireless if I was buying again.

@@dymarkeWe can understand, of course, we have many wireless remote control in JJC, welcome to know more！☺

Absolutely. Don't think of this as a replacement for the cans, think of it more as an addition to the cans, it gives you an additional tool

And its really nice to cut it how you want it at the sane cost. FYI, I found that brisket flat is great for ground beef. You can get whole brisket at Walmart around $3.80/lb, cook the point and grind the flat. I get around 5lb of ground beef and a small smoked brisket.

thank you for the feed back, I appreciate it.

Thank you for the feedback I really appreciate it.

I didn't actually measure the water I added, I started by using the viscosity cup but I didn't read the instructions close enough and used the 50 second target for both guns. I got to where I didn't use the cup but just let the paint run off the stick. When I pulled the stick out of the paint and moved it over the paint surface it would leave a small bead on the surface that would disappear in about 2 seconds. The sprayer didn't seem very picky about the paint thickness as long as I was in the ball park. The trigger adjustment makes all the difference in how much paint gets shot. The big gun was set around minimum and the small gun was set around max. That's probably because all my paint was thinned the same. I'd suggest starting around the 50 second mark and do some testing then adjust the paint thinning to how you like your work. Don't forget to check the tip for build up as you work, these guns are bad about that and it will affect your end result. It starts slowly and you don't notice until you have issues.

Make sure to check out both videos, I learned a few things as I used the guns more. I didn't think to say that I had the turbine on the highest setting. I'm sure you'd want to turn it down for oils but latex needs good pressure to atomize well especially if you don't want to thin too much.

I use the air filter you described quite often and it works great. If you put the filter on the intake side of the fan it doesn't even need to be taped, the air draw is enough to hold it in place. I usually go a little bigger on the filter size so I don't get air leaking around the edges. Thank you for the feed back.

That's interesting. I'll have to try that, thank you.

@@dymarke Wiper fluid not white bird fluid lol it's slows evaporation a bit and the tip doesn't get clogged up

Generally speaking smoking is a slow process for a couple reasons, one is that it takes a while for the smoke to penetrate the meat. You want around four hours minimum in the smoke for decent smoke penetration. And second, most meats that we smoke are tough cuts, active muscle meat, and these cuts contain a lot of connective tissue which takes a good bit of time at temperature to break down. There is research out there to help understand the time/temp relationship for breaking down the connective tissue. So to 'smoke' meat, low and slow is the only way to go, but how slow is really a matter of practice. I push my brisket and am able to get good results in the 8 hour range but it really does take a lot of practice. Keeping the meat from drying out is a challenge too. I wrap my meat earlier that most guys do and use foil instead of butcher paper because I don't want to risk getting dry. I might not get the same bark a lot of guys like but honestly unless you are a "smoke" (passionate about your smoked meat) you don't really know what bark is anyway and I still get a lot of great remarks. Your smoker makes a difference too. I had a Masterbuilt 560 and got good results then recently switched to a Masterbuilt 600 and the little bit of smoking I have done with the new smoker has been much better. I am on my third third different smoker and this one has given me the best results yet. There are meats that you "smoke" for shorter times but the smoke is more of an accent flavor than the target and the meats don't need to break down the same either. Ribs for example, I usually only have them open to the smoke for 1-2 hours but they will get a dry rub or a sauce cooked on which is where you get most of the flavor. I also cook burgers on the smoker in about 15 minutes at around 400. Now fish is a totally different matter, a very soft meat that will absorb smoke quickly and doesn't need to breakdown to be tender. Your wood and or charcoal makes a huge difference too. I had used the same charcoal for years then suddenly it just got hard to light and wouldn't heat properly so I assume the manufacturer changed something and I had to find something else. Different woods like apple or cherry will give different results too. I usually use mesquite just because to me that is the Texas barbecue that I love. Smoking is very individual, do your research but in the end practice is the only way to figure out what works for you.

that should be "smokie"

Thank you. I recently smoked a pork loin for about 6 hours unwrapped and an hour wrapped in foil. It came out okay. I'll just keep working at it.

Actually don't drop the cans. I just replied to another guy about this. Don't consider this a replacement for the cans this is in addition to the cans. It gives you more options. I still buy cans by the case

@dymarke true, the convenience of the can is strong.

It's a very solid unit all the way around. I did find one issue that may be corrected since I discussed it with the manufacturer. On the carriage where the thread passes through, there is a set screw that they used an o ring to secure. That screw needs a spot of Loctite as the o ring doesn't really work. The screw secures a little wedgie thing so be careful if you unscrew it. When I found mine missing I contact the manufacturer and they were very prompt to respond and after some discussion said they'd change their assembly method so hopefully you won't have the same issue. I still highly recommend this lift, it is high quality and the manufacturer is very responsive. Oh, if you do loose the screw it is a standard metric that you can get at Lowes if you don't want to wait for the MFG to send one.

Honestly it all depends on what you are doing. Texture and especially texture repair, is more of an art than anything else. The little Homax texture sprayer has its uses but so do the cans of touch up texture. The Homax is very handy but I still buy cans by the case. So more than anything the Homax adds another tool to my arsenal more than eliminating one.

Let me also say that the cans work great in the right application and with the right technique. It took me a long time to get decent at using the cans, and now they are essential to my business. I still don't always get repairs right the first time either. I have a Job now that I need to go back to because I didn't get it right.

Thank you for the feed back. Hope it works out for you.

I did find one minor problem and the manufacturer said they were going to change their production to fix it so it may be resolved by now. There is a set screw on the threaded part of the carriage that came loose on mine and a little wedgie thing fell out. When I called O'Skool they were very prompt to respond and we discussed the problem and resolution. I still have no problem recommending the lift even more since I now know that customer service is so responsive. Just check the set screw, they used an O ring to secure it and should have used loctite.

Thank you for the feed back. If I haven't already told you I'm pasting a note below. I did find one minor problem and the manufacturer said they were going to change their production to fix it so it may be resolved by now. There is a set screw on the threaded part of the carriage that came loose on mine and a little wedgie thing fell out. When I contacted O'Skool they were very prompt to respond and we discussed the problem and resolution. I still have no problem recommending the lift even more since I now know that customer service is so responsive. Just check the set screw, they used an O ring to secure it and should have used loctite.

Thank you so much for the feed back, its really appreciated.

That was a while ago so I don't remember but I think I did knock it down but didn't record it. But regardless that's where experience comes in. Knowing how wet/thick to make the mud, knowing how long to wait before knocking down. Or sometimes even waiting until it's dry then sanding the tops off to look like known down. The challenge is in matching the existing texture and that is all about experience. There are sooo many variables that change the end result and experience is the only teacher for that. After 30 plus years I'm finally getting good at it but I still have things to learn and I don't get it right every time. The saving grace is that customers generally don't know what they are looking at.

I don't use a knife to knock it down either. I use weather stripping for the bottom of doors. It's a flat soft plastic strip about an inch wide with tape on one half. I stick it to an old knife so half the strip is exposed past the blade. The soft plastic weather strip does the knock down. I guess I need to make a video about that.

The Vevor tent did take a little playing around to get a handle on assembly and I hate to say its been a few months since I've used one so my memory is a little vague. It is a one man job once you get it and the corners do not need to be secured. The poles cross so the poles at the bottom front corners through the top rear loops and the bottom rear corner poles go through the top front loops. Run the poles through the top loops with the angled connectors at each end of the top loops. With the tent still flat on the ground lay the poles on the ground so the one going through the top front loops has the bottoms to the back and the one going through the top rear loops has the bottoms to the front. Now my memory fails, I don't remember actually raising the tent but I think I must have worked one pole, front or rear, at a time. If you raise the front one first you can stand inside the tent as you raise it. I'm sure I tied the tent sides to the poles as I raised them. The poles do start to crack after a couple uses. I think I set up the tent about six times before the poses were too far gone to reuse. I hope this is helpful.

It sounds vey much like a shop vac except most vacs I've used have a very high pitched whine and this does not have that. Its not overly loud but if it you will be shooting for a long time I'd wear ear protecting. I just used my bluetooth ear buds and that was enough. Make sure to bathe the other video I did on this sprayer. I share a bunch more information I learned using the sprayer.

That's a great deal. I'm actually considering buying another one so I can just leave one in the shop and one in the van. Take your time getting things adjusted and it will be quite accurate. Mine moves around a lot so I need to adjust it everyone and a while. Thank you for the feed back, I really appreciate it.

@@dymarke you're welcome!

I don't use it very much but it does work as you'd expect. I did come across one little issue and my memory is going to fail me. On the cradle there is a set screw that can come out. I did have a discussion with them and they were changing the assembly process a little to add locktite to the screw so it may not be an issue anymore. I think it was on the the thread part of the carrier where the long thread passes through and the set screw held a steel wedge type thing. I have a dust box and the wedge thing was in the bottom of the box but no screw. I called them and they got the part to me real fast.The customer service was great. I would not hesitate to buy again.

Actually no I have not seen it onTV. We live in a cave and don't get much exposure to the real world. I do like the remote but next time I would spend the extra and get the wireless. The wire is too short on this one. Thanks for the contact.

Tank you for letting me know the video was helpful. The longer I use this saw the better I like it. Maybe that's because I'm getting older and its so light but regardless it is a basic but very functional saw and I hope it serves you well.

I got mine on Amazon back in February but it looks like they are getting harder to find. There is one "Open Box" on Ebay for $260 and its an auction so you might get it cheaper.

I remember looking at the Bow but I don't recall why I didn't buy it. It does look like a good product. I think it might have been a cost thing but not sure.

The corner brackets were part of the table not the lift, but you can buy them from Kreg if you need them. Its been several months but as I recall most router tables that are cut out for plates have one of two sizes and I think O'Skools might have had both.

That video was a while ago and yes you are correct so I'm guessing I maybe mis spoke on the video, I don't remember but thank you for clarifying..

Thank you so much for the comment, its nice to know that my videos help some folks.

I have to say that I was really surprised that this thing actually worked. With a little practice I think it will work quite well.

Right on. Napkin and TP make great scratch pads. Just need to not use your design to clean up.

I used both guns with the same paint mix. The detail gun was set close to the max flow and the big gun was set close to the minimum flow and the results were very similar. The paint mix wasn't very critical, by the end of the first job I was eyeballing it. Just be careful on vertical surfaces not to apply paint too heavy. Better to do more coats than to fix sags and runs, and a light coat dries fast too. I had the blower at max for everything. I got more spatter with a slower turbine. Hope that helps.

That absolutely helps. Thank you very much.

I don't remember what is included in that video but if it's not there make sure to check out the video with the feed rollers. They are a huge benefit in the right application. Thank you for the feed back.

The one I'd recommend is the Skill RT1323-00 with the dial speed control. The one I got is the RT1322-00, it has the electronic speed control which is very difficult to see when mounded on the table.

Thanks very much

Thank you so much. Making these video's is much harder that I expected so its nice to get feed back. Make sure to watch part 2, there is more detail about the guns.

Awesome, so glad I was helpful.

You are very welcome. I hope it works well for you. Thank you for the feed back

I'm working on a video for the Skil miter saw right now, literally. I was going to publish it first but it just didn't work out. I do like the saw and after 3+ years of use I'd buy again. I should have that video up in the next couple days.

I'm surprised when they have such a good product that is so close to great they wouldn't add that one little feature that would make all the difference. Thanks for the feed back

I hope it works for you, I'm very pleased with how well it works. Thanks for the feed back.

The big button on top of the turbine adjusts the air pressure as you turn it then push it to cycle power on and off. In both videos there should be a clip showing me turning the turbine on and off.

It works great, just make sure you hard wire it with a battery protecter or set to go off. I plan to change vans so just use the plug and have run my battery to nothing several times. I forget to unplug when I stop. Thanks for the feed back.

It really is, it makes managing materials on the saw much easier with better results. Its also very compact in the van and cheap to boot. Thank you for the feed back.

Thank you for the feed back