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@@outofthebox1671 There is only one throttle body. If there's oil there, it's likely due to a lack of a catch can, which is all of them. Comes in through the intake/valve cover or whatever. The intercoolers are known to fill with water/oil over time. I drill a tiny hole in the bottom right(passenger) side of the intercooler as a drain. Big enough to drain, not big enough for a real boost leak. I may have a video

@motorman9 nah. I mean there's two sides of my throttle body. The side not attached to the plenum is leaking oil. Is the cause of that issue my turbo, or my oil separator maybe

@@outofthebox1671 regardless, it's probably coming from PVC or whatever it's called. Very common

Sorry. Maybe you can find a different video

Yes. They're screens, & can be cleaned.

@@ojbarberena7090 I would recommend doing research, but advancing basically increases compression by injecting the fuel closer to TDC, thus increasing power, economy, & typically lowering EGTs. With this comes more pressure, of course, potentially increasing wear & tear(not really in the case of a 12V) & the risk of blowing a head gasket. Long story short, stock is usually around 12 degrees(should be listed on the tag on the front left side of the engine front/timing cover), & advancing 3 or 4 degrees to 16 or so is usually safe without head studs, & should increase power by maybe 10% or so, as well as economy. Any more than that & you want head studs, though I recommend retorquing the stock ones, regardless. That's usually good for around 600 HP. It also helps to burn waste oil a little cleaner from my understanding

@@miporsche Bleeding a clutch will not stop slipping(at least not in any way I've ever experienced). It fixes disengagement issues, not engagement. If clutch slipping is obvious, & not just with aggressive driving, your plates are likely bad or burnt, & need to be changed. Wrong oil can make it slip a bit, so make sure you have the right stuff. I've also experienced broken clutch/basket springs or mounts, at which point you have to change the basket, or modify it to work evenly on less springs

@@Grannyslayer191 I do my best, brother!

@@sworrall6104 Thanks! I doubt that, but I have no idea...

@@JVazquez-e5x any parts place, probably. Amazon too

@ ok appreciated

@@ricardobooker1704 I believe there is a bleed screw. I use FASS & bleed there. These setups are garbage

@@jonathanmcgowen3073 I've never done the rear, but I imagine it's harder. Mobil 1 is good. Pennzoil Platinum seems to score among the top oils in all the tests I see, so I run mainly that, but most synthetics are good. I would recommend checking that screen & turbo play once in a while. Otherwise, definitely tap a drain plug in your PTU if you haven't already, & change the oil with the best synthetic oil you can find, as those fail commonly. The rear cat heats & kills the fluid, so a cat delete & a tune(or high flow cat) is the best thing you can do for it, but a bit pricey

@@motorman9 Thanks. Fortunately my PTU has a drain plug, so I've changed the fluid in it a few times. I only seem to get about half of its stated capacity to drain, so it probably has some sludge in it from the PO (we bought it w/ ~79k on the clock).

@@marcandratschke7282 No idea who did it

@@mrbrian87 I'm here! It likely is the throttle body, but I'd start by cleaning it(gets a bit of build up inside and can restrict flow and cause low idle) if you don't have any codes to go off of. Cold definitely screws with them, more likely than sensors. But always start with codes.

@ cool thanks, no codes. On a slightly warmer day I’ll pull it off and clean it. Doesn’t look too involved but a little longer than the sensor!

real no shot that is doing 260

@@cgbowhunting5419 They're slow anywhere near stock

@@motorman9yeah idk bout that one dude

@@cd4648 it's either tuned or it's not. This one is. Weak Bullydog tuner, but they're slow, anyway

@@Bear1097 Some people shouldn't mess with stuff 🤷‍♂️

@ hahaha AGRRED! Ever do a repair that someone’s done before, half the hardware is missing, nothing was done right 😅

Not sure what you mean, but oil is the fuel 😁

@@motorman9 not when its not in the tank xD

@@orionlawrence210 , oh, I got you. Yeah, it was a bit low 😁

Short. Always make DANG sure your positive+ cables are NOT touching ground anywhere after installation. Touch the cables to the battery after installation, & if there's LOTS of spark, you likely have a short

@motorman9 well whenever I hooked the battery up the first time the starter spinner over as if it wasn't hooked up to the fly wheel, so I disconnected the battery and went back under the car and changed the wires around cause I thought I had hooked up wrong. I ended up putting everything back together and went to hook the battery up again and that's when the fire came, so now I'm thinking I had it hooked up right the first time but it wasn't hooked up to the fly wheel. Whenever I have time I'ma try to hook it back up if the fire didn't mess things up

@frankwilliamsjr7235 Don't think you can really hook it up wrong. Big cable & little cable. Not sure how you had it, but if it was spinning, it was probably right. If it's just spinning, it may not be getting enough power, or the solenoid to pop out the bendix or whatever it's called isn't working. Don't know enough about them, unfortunately

@@TheThraser08 Hopefully you'll get over it. Hey, once you make a better video, feel free to send us all a link!

That’s why they got the fast forward leave the guy alone lol

@@madeinjapan3485 Not likely. Could get all you need for probably $20 at Walmart

@@PatrickGibbons-zq5lb Couldn't tell you, but it would likely function as normal without having to roll, if you have to roll now

Not sure what you're talking about, as I don't know of an idle screw. The linkage is adjustable. There's 2 nuts you have to loosen, but it's easier to pop the linkage off. Otherwise you have to hold it while breaking the nuts loose, & then you rotate the center piece up or down, depending

Same things going on with me. Idle screw is tightened all the way down. Idle still staying high.

@@rafaelcrisostomo3419 What is this idle screw you speak of?

@@rydermaxwell7780 straight in the Duramax, not very. Couple tanks. I've done 10-20 gallons at a time many times in all Cummins from 03-12 deleted. No issues

@@paulaubin510 That's impressive. I'm also on waste oil

@@goofypettiger Thanks! I run it in all my diesels. 12V VE & P pump, 24V VP44 & CR(basically every Cummins from 89-2015 & beyond, if deleted), 7.3 IDI & PS, even my Duramaxs, as well as my 80s-2005+ VWs, just about every diesel before 2000, & some beyond. Main thing is a good lift pump, & good filtration. Also need to know what ratios to run in what. I'll do up to 30+% gasoline, depending

@@supersoni126 In laws car. Never figured it out, or really tried. Not my problem

@@gilbertroberts7843, I think they all do. Like an air shock on a bike. Put 100 psi in, it'll be maxed LONG before that pressure. Let it out, & it'll lose lots of pressure before the bike actually drops.

@@Ciares Father, actually :) No problem!

@motorman9 If you could ask him actually since he is already familiar with it all why it's not safe to replace the thin throttle wire with a thicker gauged throttle controller, removing the on/off switch and the entire relay? To just simply wire everything together, allowing the throttle to be the on-off switch and also wiring the charger port before the throttle? I suck at soldering.

@@Ciares , he knows nothing about it. You would have to find some way to give power straight to the motor with that switch. Should be doable