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They set the expansion fitting wrong if it was set right you wouldn't have to worry about settling pulling it out. Normally you're supposed to set them in the middle of the travel, not near either end.

That feeder pipe does not go to the panel below, its the underground power coming into the house. The ground settled pulling the pipe down with it. That conduit to the left is what goes to the main panel.

That is definitely issues waiting to happen

I'm dealing with the same issue right now waps are annoying

Forgive my ignorance but isn't that shut-off valve stamped WOG (water oil gas)?

How about using same pipe. I have sump pump, can’t the radon mitigation use the same pipe?

Hack job!!

I have a similar looking flue but not with that problem. There’s a Tee fitting on the floor above, for a woodstove; I want it removed, but the heating company won’t touch it unless I can identify the manufacturer and have a plug/cap fabricated. How can I identify the manufacturer?

We were told the same. How does one fix this?? Can a bigger pipe be installed ??

How much of a difference in radon levels did this system make?

Dude I thought you were gonna give me the answer. 1st

Never looked better, Jon!! 😂😂

insane

I hate those while-in-use covers, and this is one reason why

I know you are a home, inspector, and not a plumber, but I think the repair of that was so simple. You should’ve done it for the homeowner. That’s just my opinion.

Why not have the drain pipe a little closer to the drain hole? Maybe even at the edge of the hole?

John you are awesome thank you

I've been told it is illegal to block off a sump pump like that. Have you heard anything like that before?

I am trying to figure out how this might work for my renovation. BIG question is If you have a radon mitigation fan turned on, that will create a negative pressure in the sump pit. Will the pressure affect the water pump?

Thanks bro my house renting now has the panel that literally looks just like that. Just got certified as a home inspector and I was like I doubt this can be allowed. I looked it up and they did say it’s not good to do but you can paint the panel box. I think that’s stupid cause in my house I removed all 4 screws but that shit just won’t budge or move at all even with no screws the paint is dryer and has the panel stuck thanks bro just needed to clarify what I thought was true and you helped me verify it

Now this guy is a real electrician. I'm glad that he pointed out that their is no inspection sticker. Most people miss this or do not mention it

What is the cure?

Ki

I JUST WANT TO SEE A VIDEO OF A FULLY FLOODED BASEMENT WITH 3 FEET OF WATER WITH A CLOGGED FLOOR DRAIN WHERE IT GETS UNCLOGGED AND THE WATER RUSHES DOWN THE FLOOR DAIN WITH A HUGE WHIRPOOL..

And🤷🏽‍♀️ so what if u found that😂 what’s the point of your video.

Good video man ! Thanks for doing the right then and not being a papa John that doesn’t do anything and or pushes it to someone eles. Have a good one man and keep the videos coming.. I’m needing to start doing this myself! Again, GOOD WORK!

Nice video

That looks like a real PAIN to service! I normally ignore my sump pump, as I also have a battery backup pump installed, but just recently the float switch on the primary pump failed, and the reason I noticed it was the sulfur smell from my backup pump's battery that had failed too! Had to pull both out to service the lower-level primary pump. I see in your video, there are rubber coupler sleeves which seem simple enough to undo, but trying to lift the whole assembly at once, it sure seems like the seals around the pipes will be compromised, and how does the plexiglass even seal against the floor? Is that just plumber's putty or clay?

How does this work if your pit is filled with water to a point that it hasn't kicked on the sump pump yet. How does the radon fan suck radon gas out from beneath your slab with water in the pit?

It also helps with out of town investors. It enables them to view the property and make an offer based on the condition without seeing the property in person.

Steve, I am looking forward to the series.

That water heater flue would be an immediate safety issue and a CO problem, wouldn't it? Did the home have CO detectors? How dangerous is that? Great video.

Spot on! Great advice for sellers to get a pre-listing inspection. The buyer is confident making a more aggressive offer, it reduces liability on ALL agents involved, and the deal is more likely to stay together and helps decrease buyer's remorse.

A pre-inspection is a great tool and tactic for sellers to get top dollar! Most deals fall apart for 2 reasons, the home inspection and financing. It eliminates headache for the agent and reduces liability for all. The other aspect of the inspection is the knowledge and education the inspector gives to new homeowners on maintenance and the operation of the home.

This is awesome. The first smoke detector is a Sears Early One model 350.57045, second one is a First Alert model SA76RS. I have an example of one of each in my collection, albiet different variants (my Sears model has an added heat sensor feature, and both my current SA76RS units have slightly different cover designs). Both are highly sought after vintage units to a lot of people, including myself. The horns in these are electromechanical "squealer" type as opposed to the piezo electronic horn modern alarms contain. I for one prefer the squealer sound, definitely more effective than the piezos. If you have any of these old units, throw em up on ebay someone will buy them.

I actually collect older smoke and fire alarm devices such as these as a hobby. The one on the wall is a Sears branded unit, and the one on the ceiling is an old First Alert model, both made around circa 1975. The old horns they use are called squealers (which in these particular units are Kobishi model CLB-27 squealers) which they pretty much stopped using in smoke alarms in around 1980. So yes those would definitely need to be replaced.

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