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The lesson explanation is very wonderful

Will it work if I use two sets of encoder and decoder with different address for each pair and send the data through one wire?

I would just paint supports on each part, or use tree supports..

My brother in christ, you dont have an idea how helpful this is for someone like me with no previous 3d printing experience. Amazing tutorial!!!

Please keep posting. There is always a lag in uptake for quality channels.

Thank you.

Why you dont just ad suports that ar made as part of the model itself! It s mutch easyer!

You could also just change the support overhang angle. Orca Slicer 2.0 is introducing sacrificial layer support for holes. Lots of good tips in this video though.

Something else to consider besides print speed, is extrusion width. With a 0.4mm nozzle you can print 0.6 width i’ve even done 0.8mm width and this allows you to do much higher layer heights. Like 0.36. Especially on a part like this without fine detail. The print will still come out looking clean. You just have to he careful to check your volumetric flow rate for your hotend or you will stress it too far and it won’t extrude enough material. But i find i would get better prints like this than if i simply increased the print speed

I would split this part in two and print without supports

you can change ur line width from 0.4 to 0.6 or even 0.8 ive had good time saving doing this trick as well.

It's kinda unbelievable that Cura still doesn't have a intelligent auto support function, like resin printer sclicers

Changing your Support overhang angle and selecting tree supports could be an alternative

How to reduce an 8 hour print to 3 hours. Get bambulab

why not just use tree supports with the blocker? Seems like it will be faster?

Great tutorial idea. Unfortunatelly the execution of it is way more complicated that it needs to be.

All of this is vastly easier in PrusaSlicer. Smart support placement, filling in slopes with perimeters rather than zigzags. All the stuff you’re doing here (and I used to do a couple years ago) is done by the slicer now.

Great video, not only time but also material saving... i am sure this will help many people who havent known yet ❤ As a fast printer enthusiast have to say tho : "A fast printer always does the job 😅"

Does 0.4mm layer height print well with a 0.4mm nozzle?

Thanks a lot for the video!

Rapaz não entendi ainda as ligações do joystick

Reparei q na maioria das pessoas q faz esse projeto usar sempre essas bateria de 9v saberia dizer se pode usar bateria 18650

okay, but why? is it better? cooler? solve a problem for someone? if you made this i n the shape of a hair dryer, would it be more or less interesting as a project? would a diy hair dryer video be interesting? I mean.. you don't lack talent in the design area.. but the idea area perhaps needs some work. talk to some people in your life and ask them to pay extra attention during the next week to see if they have any annoyances or repetitive tasks in their life. make a list. see if you can improve any of those situations or automate them. chance are, if someone has an annoyance or repetitive task, tons of people have the same thing. creating a solution or concept for that gets eyeballs. ;-) good luck!

Excellent video, clear illustration of the circuit concepts. Thank you, keep up the great work!

Waste of time you use a more pure form of power and convert it to more wasteful also usless 3d print

at this rate i feel like it would be easier to just buy a cheap off brand bread toaster and strapping on a fan :P

3:53 your faith is misplaced sir

I don't think anyone would like to build this Heat pumps are likely more energy efficient

nice video, jet as an electronics engineer I have some doubts about your device: 1. The coils (100°C) are quite exposed with a high risk of burning yourself or anything else (a metal cover should be considered). 2. The soldering points of the coils look a lot like cold soldering joints, i.e. not soldered at all. Could lead to even hotter points there. You should check for that, maybe use a crimped connection instead. 3. The heat shield you used should be a one piece part and maybe attached to the metal rods instead of the plastic that could soften with heat and tape that might not like heat too. 4. The price for the power supply is at least 30€ which in itself is more than a commercial heater with thermostat. So maybe it's not quite price efficient. The idea is good, but there is room for improvement, especially safety.

The 550w heater in my room: (Desktop PC)

Looking at the quality of the layers in your prints, it seems like your printer needs some major maintenance. Other than that, pretty cool project!

Reinventing a hair dryer with extra-steps.

Just use a 3d build plate and fan.

Awesome AI read of a data sheet

Super! Thank you very much!

In your experiment you provided both sides of the transmissiom with electricity from different batteries, but I did not see the common ground conection. To get over longer distances it is better to have a differential transmission giving the same signal positive and negative (symmetrically).

More of this pls. And the actuator.

Thanks do more please. I can read just fine but you're awesome when I don't want to read

Good luck finding these anywhere else than eBay or from Chinese vendors via Aliexpress or via Amazon. Buyer beware - many of the chips from China these days are junk produced or outright fakes. Just sayin'

*My list of ideas in response to this video!* There's no need to use analogue joysticks here. Since the op-amp chips just decode them into digital, up/down left/right directions with no analogue component. Just using a digital joystick would have been better and not require those op-amps. You could even just use pushbuttons of the type shown earlier, if you're going to 3D print the joypad, and printed your own joypad part to press on them. You can also obtain digital joysticks as components online, searching with "Arduino" gets you results, although most of them are analogue, the digital ones are there with simple direct pinouts. Or else you can buy rubber domes with carbon discs attached to them. Often used in keyboards or joypads. Put a pattern on your PCB as found in joypads and buttons, and arrange for your buttons or joypad to press down on them, so the carbon bridges the contacts on your PCB. Searching "carbon button contacts" came up with a supplier on Ebay, 20 units for $4.80 but that's just a quick search, you might do better. The PCB pattern you use can be as simple as a circle split down the middle, but more complex patterns can be used. Saves on 2 chips and some complication. You might go with full analogue control, in which case something like an Arduino would be better all-round and not more expensive, you can get all sorts of different microcontroller chips that support the Arduino system. Many have ADC on them. Then you'd could download a software module meant for encoding data, let someone else do the work! Even encoding intended for infra-red should work fine with this sort of radio module. Or else you could have the Arduino output to the data and address lines of one of these HT12E chips, by having it control several address lines you could use just 1 encoder for several addresses. So you could send 4-bits of ADC data for an analogue joystick reading, 4 bits is 16 levels of resolution for the joypad, that's plenty in my opinion but nothing stopping you sending more to different addresses. The receiver might just use several decoder chips, or you could add an Arduino as well to scan through different addresses and read all of them. Arduinos can do PWM output for stepper motors, lots of useful stuff, and so much code is available for free, written as modules you can use and just integrate together. Once you get an Arduino, and cheap clones are fine (it's open source), and install the software, you'll start learning very quickly and soon be having a ton of fun. I absolutely recommend them! And you can get them for $5 or so if you look around. There's also component kits with lots of input and output devices, meant for using with Arduino, to create and experiment with all sorts of things.

In your first breadboard circuit, around 3:20, you haven't connected the two circuits' grounds together. So the circuit shouldn't work. I can only assume it does because the CMOS receiver is so high-impedance it can take the data capacitively coupled, effectively. I think I'm right in assuming the chips don't generate RF, only a sequence of bits to be put onto a carrier wave by other circuitry, that might be infra-red or radio for example. So if you're skipping a transceiver, using only these data encoder / decoder chips, they should be sharing a ground wire, for the signal wire to induce any voltage in the receiver. It's odd that it works at all, and if someone used it as an example, it may well not work.

Thanks.

Like super and super easy. Like.