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@@ptonpc I've pretty much came to the same conclusion.I'm still very cautious of certain power tools after my parkside 240v reciprocating saw failed because of the rotating handle. The cordless 20v doesn't have that feature and it's a really good quality tool.

Totally agree with you. I've had some really good tools from both Aldi and Lidl but I've also had a few bad ones. The Aldi Powercraft stick welder was awful and kept tripping the electrics so i bought the near identical Parkside one and had no issues at all. I was so impressed I bought another as a spare but have never needed it. The Aldi calipers I've had for at least 10 years and were bought as a gift from a friend who also bought himself a set. His are also still working okay but we both store them in the original box and take the battery out when not in use so perhaps that's why they've lasted? As for accuracy they can be recalibrated which is what I'm going to have to do with the Parkside ones. You shouldn't have to do that when new though hence I'm a little disappointed with them.

So I'm not the only one who sings that when i see the tools in lidl

@@matty7758 I imagine everyone is thinking it 😁

The air/fuel ratio on the SHA carb is fixed unfortunately as there's no needle to adjust. The only adjustment is an idle speed screw. You can fit slides with different profiles though to adjust throttle response at certain RPM's.

It was £24.99 for the bare tool but if you don't already have any park side tools in the 12v X range then you'll need a battery and charger which was £15. You'll have the same situation if you go for the sealey so try looking for one that comes with a battery and charger. I'd avoid any of the generic Chinese ones on eBay as the torque and power figures are widely exaggerated.

If it's been dropped check all the electrical connections as a bad connection at the side stand switch or brake light switches will stop it from starting. These form part of a circuit that stops the bike being started if it's not in a safe position. Also check the connections to the emission control solenoids on the carb and the O2 sensor in the exhaust as issues with these will bring the check engine light on after starting. If these are okay check make sure the engine is getting fuel while starting. The idle jet and circuit in the carb are really small and block easily with dirty fuel. This is a common problem with gy6 50cc engines and will also stop the bike from starting on the motor but will start with a kick and throttle held open slightly. If this is the problem you'll find the engine will cut out as soon as you close the throttle. If this is okay check the vacuum operated fuel tap is opening. If the battery isn't fully charged the starter motor won't turn the engine fast enough to create a partial vacuum in the inlet manifold to open the tap. Test this by taking the fuel feed from tap off the carb. If fuel flows when you kick start it but not when you use the motor the battery and/or the motor is probably the issue.

Thank you for the reply,bike starts and runs when it wants on starter and everytime with the kick,runs and rides perfect once started,will check the sensors asap, thanks for the reply

@@passatv6077 Forgot to mention check the starter motor Bendix drive. I've never known this turn on the check engine light but if it sticks it stops the starter motor engaging with the engine so it just spins.

Check the sparkplug first. If you've got a spark when it's grounded to the cylinder head but it's dry you've got either a carb or fuel tap issue. If the plug is wet but there's no spark you're getting fuel through the carb so check the connections to the ignition coil, cdi unit and the brake levers as you have to pull either of them into to start.

I don't think that matters with classic mopeds especially in the UK where they're harder to find. The owner of this particular bike bought it because it was his first bike as a teenager. Now that he's retired he wanted another to recapture those days riding it in his youth. In that respect it's top of the list.

@@Themoporium ...well there's no match for the emotional value, ....I'll give you a tip, I remeber the performances beeing a bit poor, ...here in Italy the exhaust swap was the first upgrade to go for ....google "proma garelli vip" or "giannelli garelli vip" (remeber, usually the shorter the louder), and update the carb jets with bigger if needed.

The sealey is quite old and designed more like a power drill, so despite the battery being out of the way the overall length is a bit of a hindrance in tight spaces. Modern 3/8" impact guns are much shorter for this reason.

Here in the UK we've only just had the A1 version but in Europe the A2 is available which comes with the battery and charger which I think I'd prefer. If I was a first time buyer I'd be a bit annoyed if the store didn't have the battery and charger on sale at the same time. I'm pleased with it though and I'm interested to see how the plastic power switch lasts compared to the metal ones on more up market tools.

Yes just pull the sparkplug cap off. Be warned though if you're not wearing gloves you may get a slight zap off the cap especially if it's wet.

The 38mm pistons with 10mm small end pin are interchangeable as are the 10mm small end bearing. Flywheels and stator plates are also interchangeable even though the Maxi will be a Bosch one and the Tomos an Iskra. The cylinder heads can be used on both engines but the maxi barrel needs the exhaust to be modified and a custom inlet manifold as it's designed to mount horizontally. If you fit it to an A3 like on my green special the inlet and exhaust ports are at the wrong angle hence the need for modified or custom parts.

@@Themoporium Many thx for help👍

Hi I've sold my PC50 now but the ignition wiring is really simple. There's just 1 wire that goes from a coil on the magneto stator to the ignition coil hidden inside the frame just behind the engine. This is then grounded by the frame. The wire from the stator coil also has a connection to the points and condenser mounted on the stator. There's no external kill switch as the PC50 uses a decompression valve to stop the engine. Hope this helps.

So my black wire coming up goes to the coil. Which wire does it connect to the black/yellow? And where does the green wire from the coil go to?

@@b00sted4 There's a couple of variations of the loom depending on year and spec. Usually there's a black wire to the coil but it also goes to a plug which doesn't go any where. This could be used for a kill switch but as mentioned most models don't have them. The green is the earth or ground wire. All other wires are for the lights and horn. I also had a white wire on mine coming from the head light loom which was for a brake light which my model didn't have. Google Honda PC50e wiring diagram and you'll find a good one on the moped army website. It's really easy to follow so I expect it's out of the Honda PC50 Haynes manual or Factory Workshop manual.

Same mistake I made when I first started using it and had to sand the wrinkles out and leave it 2 weeks. Most acrylic and cellulose spray paints can be over coated in 12 hours but I've found ones containing xylene need at least 24 hours otherwise the primer changes the colour of the top coat. I'm not sure what's exactly in the Park side spray but it behaves like an oil based enamel with regards to wrinkling and reacting with other types of paint. I therefore stick to the instructions now to avoid wrinkling and don't use it with anything else. Great finish though.

@@Themoporium 1st of all I have a lot of respect for you,responding on an old video 2nd: it’s a bike 3 spoke rim ,I bought more paint today and will wait the 2 week to correct it but also another question I bought the top/clear coat by parkside do you think I should wait 2 weeks to cover it as well?

@@bg_stinger5398 To be honest I've never needed to use the clear coat over a coloured top coat but I have used it to protect untreated metal. It states you can repaint after 2 hours on the can so I would spray a small test piece of metal with the coloured coat and try the clear after 2 hours. If it reacts leave the wheels 2 weeks to fully cure before using the clear just to be safe. It's a pain stripping paint off of wheels so best to take your time.

Yes you often find very small bits of grit in there which makes the air filter a bit pointless. If you smear water proof grease around the outside of the lever opening it stops the grit getting in but it's not a permanent solution.

I was going to try using thread Lock to glue it in place but need to find one that is resistant to petrol.

There is a clear lacquer in the range but I've used it as the coloured spray is so glossy. I used the silver grey and the white the other day on parts I'd made and it only needed 3 coats to get a perfect finish. Only problem is it dries so quick to a gloss finish you can get runs by spraying another coat to soon.

This was unfortunately necessary. Commercially available superchargers require more horse power to turn than a 49cc engine produces which increases with rpm. By making my own and gearing it down it did achieve a small amount of positive displacement at high rpm but it had also reached an equilibrium by making back what HP was lost from the parasitic load. If the engine produced a bit more HP I could've increased the gearing but there was also a limit to the drive pulley diameter inside the belt drive cover. I might try turbo charging next time but I've noticed while researching turbo conversions on small capacity engines is that they hold the waste gate open. This is apparently done for safety but it also means hardly any boost is made so has little effect on performance if at all. I also have my concerns with forced induction on such small engines so will need to think about how to achieve decent boost without blowing the engine and myself up🤔

I was surprised the wiring loom was missing as it's quite a large item. Usually it's the small parts that get lost or mislaid. The engine inspection will be next which is going to be interesting🕵

There's going to be 2 or 3 Tomos related video's coming soon.

Next week I'll be fixing a walkman that started to melt🙂

In the play list there's a more in depth video on testing the type of ignition coils fitted to Tomos and Puch mopeds. If you've got no spark start by testing the coil as this is where the spark is generated. If the coil is okay then check the operation of the points and replace the condenser if you've no means of testing it.

I used to own a 4hp short shaft Tomos outboard. I bought it as a seized non runner but while restoring I found out what parts were interchangeable with my mopeds. The stator plate and flywheel are identical. The Tomos A3 flywheel still has the fixing holes for the cooling fan even though they don't use one.The piston and barrel are a larger bore but I suspect they're the same as the Puch MS60. Tomos built their own version of this bike and it's possible they used that type of engines top end design for the outboards as they were also fan cooled.

The P50 came before the PC50 so you could say it was the grandfather of Honda mopeds. An interesting design as well. 👍

Yes that's correct. Also, if it's a digital auto ranging multimeter, you won't have to change the ohm's range to test the primary and secondary windings.

Thanks. The complete scooter might actually be a suitable donor for a future project I'm planning and being supercharged would be an added bonus.

Probably the most used word on TH-cam.

I also used mostly Dewalt tools when I worked as an automotive engineer. You can afford to invest in tools like that with paying work but difficult to justify if only for DIY use. The biggest mistake was to buy clone battery packs not genuine Dewalt ones. They don't last 5 minutes in a workshop environment.

Nah id steer well clear of knockoff bateries. And even diy batteries because you actually cant make the same packs for cheaper then you buy them.. Dewalt would buy lion cells in such massive bulk quantities that there probably getting them for 3 pound each.. For you to buy a samsung/lg cell rated for 30a discharge as used in Dewalt/makita ect.. youd be looking at minimum 7 pound each .. Thats 70 pound straight away.. Now you have some knockoff case that you have to solder 10 cells into, will it burn your house down, will it work with the original chargers ?? So you have made a batery for either the same or higher price than the original.. Anything costing 30 quid as a copy battery will 100% be junk.. Lidl are using a chinese cell manufacturer that actually makes good quality cells, Same as Einhell batteries,but there not the same standard as an lg/sony/murate ect.. They would be a step below them but fine for garage/home use...

@@petrokemikal Totally agree. As a qualified electronic and electrical engineer I could make my own battery packs but it's just not worth the cost or the risk with cheap cells.

There's actually quite an extensive 'ecosystem' of tools and battery packs that are all compatible in either the X20v range or the X12v range. Granted, some of the very early 12v models had similar but not interchangeable battery packs but this was before the X12v range was introduced. I agree with the amount of torque settings being excessive on this model though which is far more than if it was a cordless screwdriver. As for the drill bits, brittle is probably not the right word because the higher the quality of the bit the more brittle it becomes. Professional Dormer and Presto drill bits for example will snap if you accidentally drop them. Cheap drill bits on the other hand just bend. The drill bits that come with this tool are better than the Parkside ones in the metal box but you'd be foolish to expect them to be really high quality at that price. The screwdriver bits are okay but they will wear out eventually from use.

Never operate machinery when taking medication 🤧

Yes. Unfortunately I was slightly under the weather with what turned out to be COVID and it didn't upload in the correct format for TH-cam.