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@@VolimDaPopravljam take the top off the float bowl and check the float hasn't been put in upside down. One end of the float needle has a point which is what stops fuel when the float bowl is full. If it's fitted upside down the blunt end of the needle won't shut the fuel off and the carb leaks from the overflow on top of the float bowl cover. Congratulations on getting 2 Tomos A3's as well👍

@@Themoporium hi thanks :D i got them cheap one is mostly for parts but second one is the one i am working on, also i started uploading videos about it, btw i ordered new dellorto carb but i was not sure what was wrong with the old one, the needle was the right way but still it wants to leak, so strange, btw can you explain to me how much you move magnet to the right while adjusting spark ? as i cant really find easy answer to this, i have spark but i am not sure if timing is right, so if you can tell me thing it will be really cool :D

@VolimDaPopravljam the amount the stator plate needs to be moved depends on the points gap being set right as well as how worn the heel is that rubs on the magneto cam. It therefore varies but with new points and the gap set to 15 thou the 3 stator plate mounting screws should be in the middle of which is a good starting point. I'd advise watching the video on setting the timing as it needs to be a bit more accurate than that.

@@Themoporium hi thanks again for the reply !!! i will do it your way and i hope it will work xd i had tomos apn4 before but i never adjusted timing as it was not needed. so i guess i have to learn something new !!! btw its unusual to see tomos there xd how popular was there ?

​@@Themoporium hi i have one big problem, sry to bother you but i know that you can help me because you know a lot about those bikes, btw i got new parts today new carb dellorto sha14 12 all gaskets i changed all of that, i have good compression and i adjusted spark as you told me, but for some reason i dont have fuel in a cilinder, so it cant run,fuel goes to carb and it does not come out, sparkplug is dry as desert. do you have any suggestion about what should i do ?

@@Jetta_mk2 this bike was bought for spares so I didn't build the engine. It's a DMP kit though so it's a straight swap but I've been told by the builder he did some machining so I'll be doing a tear down video soon to find out.

​@@Themoporium Thanks! I’ve read that there are non-plug-and-play options for this type of engine. I was a bit curious about how you made it work, as I’ve seen others do it too, so I’m really looking forward to it!

@@Jetta_mk2 it's the Conrod small end bearing that's the main issue on the A3 as it's used a 10mm gudgeon pin and most kits are 12mm as they're designed for the A35. There's larger ID bushes which resolve this issue as well as replacement Conrod kits. It's be interesting to find out what was used?

@@Matt-hj4mw and a Happy New Year to you!

I once owned a '85 Mazda RX7 as it was on my list to have a rotary engined vehicle and I wasn't disappointed. The Norton rotary must've been an interesting project to work on.👍

@@Themoporium After about 8 years of Commando ownership (and racing), the rotary took a bit of getting used to but it was an *amazing* motorcycle to ride. This was in the early days when idle and power delivery characteristics weren't perfectly developed but it was as smooth, fast, and strong as my '84 13B RX-7. I think we're on the same page!!! 👍 😄 Those of us on "the motorcycle side" had a good regard for the Easy Rider. It was similar to other mopeds of its time but the suspension, ride characteristic, stability etc. were really quite good.

@@wibblywobblyidiotvision the torch and earth leads are both 2 meters long which for the size of the welder is okay as it's small and light enough to put right next to where you're working. As for the mask I have an auto darkening one so don't use the handheld ones. This shield is small but one of the better ones I've seen and they do vary in quality much like the auto darkening ones. I had a cheap one from Amazon and the darkening time even with the sensitivity set to max was still too slow which resulted in arc eye when stitch welding. I'm currently using a Parkside one which is much better quality although the polarity marking for the AAA batteries is back to front. I'll definitely be checking out the sockets and plugs as a poor connection could generate heat. I've had this on poor quality earth clamps which causes the cables insulation to melt.

@@Steve-cw2hc I kind of figured that when I couldn't see a type number but it'll be fun to test them🙂. I get my rods from a welding supply company although I have had good results using the parkside flux core mig wire.

@KarlThompson-s7f And a Merry Christmas to you kind sir🤝

@@Jri801 Check the connection to the electric choke solenoid on the carb. There's 2 wires going to it, green and yellow if I remember correctly. Make sure it's got a good connection at the plug.

@Themoporium thanks will check that out tomorrow, could it be anything to do with the ignition barrel? The front lights sometimes play up and fuel gauge is going up and down

@@Jri801 If it's the headlights these generally run directly from a coil inside the magneto instead of via the battery like the indicators and tail lights, so brightness will vary with engine speed. The fuel gauge will also be off the battery so I'd check the regulator/rectifier is working properly if this moves iratically. You should have about 13.6v at the battery when engine is running and should maintain this as engine speed increases.

@@johnybravo1774 There's a TH-cam short on common issues with encarwi carbs which might help solve the problem.

@Themoporium send a link if you find it

@@johnybravo1774 th-cam.com/users/shortsvh-CM6OcrNM?feature=shared

@@leecoghlan2067 I'd check to make sure there's a spark when using the kick start. If not make sure the side stand and brake switches are okay as they will prevent the engine from starting even with a good battery. If you've got a spark check for fuel. If the spark plug isn't getting wet check the vacuum operated fuel tap works by kicking the engine with the fuel pipe to the carb removed. If fuel comes out it's probably a blocked idle jet. The 50cc gy6 engine uses a very small idle jet size and are prone to blocking.

@@BeamBinge Well spotted. It is an A35 but it's got an an A3 flywheel cover because all the A35 ones I have always crack where the kickstart mechanism is mounted to it. The A3 one is much stronger. As for using a 12mm pin with an A3 Conrod, I use a 14mm o.d 12mm i.d bronze bush in the small end. This is a Puch Maxi part so have a search for one of these rather than Tomos. I'd rather use a roller bearing but the standard pin uses a 10mm bronze bush so it's up to the job

@@ducodewolf266 I've always thought they looked like a pineapple or a grenade 🤔. Anyway, with regards to to he carb, the Tomos S25 had an A3 engine with a Dellorto SHA14:12 but it used a different manifold. If you can track down one of these manifolds it will bolt straight on and the carb still sits under the frame like the encarwi carb. If not YPV spares were selling steel manifold flanges so you could fabricate one.

@@Themoporium By chance i got the manifold you are talking about with the Dellorto 14:9 it came like this from the factory so my guess is i have one of the newer versions, i was already thinking about upgrading to the 14:12 since the measurements make more sence with the stock manifold, i was wondering could you perhaps note down the measurements of the tuned parts of the cilinder? the video explains perfectly where and how to tune the cilinder, yet since i have never tried this before i thought it wise to copy and paste your work so to speak.

@@Themoporium 🤣The websites that sell it call it the egg cilinder in my country, pineapple cilinder would be better tho i agree, might have to find some yellow heat resistant paint.

@@ducodewolf266 It's quite difficult to take the internal measurements within the inlet port due to it not being straight. What I do is measure the size of the port on cylinder wall by putting a piece of paper inside the barrel and use a finger to mark the outline of the port (it helps if you've got dirty workshop fingers). From the imprint on the paper you can work out the size of the port and compare it to the size of the port on the outside of the barrel. The largest you can take a stock manifold out to is 12mm I.d so you may not be able to match the inside and outside ports exactly without building a manifold. The 12mm diameter does match the outlet of the sha14.12 carb so it gives you a measurement to start with. You then need to try and get the inside of the inlet port tract as close to 12mm I.d all the way through to the port on the inside of the barrel. A lot if this done by eye so what you're aiming for is to be able to see through the port with less restriction. I therefore mostly concentrate on smoothing out the radius where it goes around the casting on the right side for the manifold mounting stud. Once I've finished working on the barrel in the video I'll put another video up covering the final measurements.

This type of work is very time consuming as it has to be done by hand. To do it on every barrel would increase production costs so cylinder work is usually limited to what can be done by machining. I expect if a manufacture did a limited production run of performance models they may do it, but again this would be reflected in a higher purchase price.

Any vehicle manufacturer (even one building mopeds) will already know what engine characteristics they want BEFORE they actually cut any metal. Tomos will have decided what BHP and at what RPM they want the engine to produce this BHP, they are NOT in the business of trying to get the maximum performance they can out of the engine. So this means that a "home tuner" can modify the engine away from what the intensions of the manufacturer were in order to create an engine that suits his needs better. This does not necessarily mean that the engine is 'better' it just means that if differs from the stock engine. (Is an engine better just because it makes more power? well maybe not if you have to run it on high octane fuel and it wears out the crank bearings twice as fast as a stock engine). I have an old Honda MT5 moped, in the UK they were restricted, they made about 2.5BHP and the 'ped would only do about 30 MPH. I reckon mine is making about 7-8 BHP, it does an easy 55 MPH. The down side is that the power band is narrow. (Not that the stock engine even had a power band!)

Correct and, unless it's an outboard, I always use a filter. On this carb it's a round mesh type filter which is mounted directly to the inlet side of the carb. You can't see it as it's hidden by the plastic, hence I had to point to where it's located.

@@adamrezabek7397 there's a button on the throttle twist grip that when moved sideways allows the grip to rotate in the opposite direction slightly. This slackens the cable and lowers the throttle slide down in the carb choking the intake. Once the engine starts you give the throttle a twist in the normal direction and the button clicks back into a detention that allows the engine to idle.

@@Themoporium thank you

@@Mjk10957 Weird? I was trying to work out when the 12v X Team was introduced as I've 3 tools from 2017 that all use similar but incompatible batteries due to the reversed polarity. I managed to swap the terminals on the drill as it had no temperature sensor connection but the case needed modification. The multi tool is a bit trickier as it has a sensor connection and it's not in the same place as the X Team batteries. I wonder if they just changed the PCB on the model you have.Is it badged up as part of the X Team 12v range?

I have the exact same issue with my house as it's built from cast concrete using a massive wooden form. The walls are over 12" thick so a conventional hammer drill struggles to make a hole past the plaster. A pneumatic hammer drill is capable of drilling right through but, as you say it's a bit bulky, especially for putting a shelf up.

@@jimdavies5472 yes did all the paper work and sent off photos to the DVLA and got the body type changed from saloon to pickup on the v5. I sold the car eventually but bought it back after a few years and the body type had changed to tricycle.When I enquired about this with the DVLA after explain how I'd originally had to change the body type they said it was because their computer database had changed since then and it no longer allowed body type to be listed for 3 wheelers. Not sure if this is the case but if you're planning a conversation check the v5 first to see what it states.

@Themoporium thanks for the reply, I just bought a reliant robin that someone had started the projet,I only wanted the engine but after looking at it for a bit think I need to finish it off as it looks cool as.

@@SBBUK mine is working perfectly although I do find the sliding dead man's switch really awkward to use before you can turn it on. They've got a good warranty so I'd take it back for a refund as it sounds just like an electrical issue.

@@percyveer3672 The PC50 is a fantastic bike bad sadly I had to sell mine to make space in the workshop.I particularly like the OHV engines though so maybe I'll get another one when space and finances allow👍

Does it have the ohc or ohv engine?

Both impact drivers and impact wrenches work on the same mechanical principle. The only difference is one is able to deliver more torque than the other and that's what makes one more suitable for specific jobs. As explained in the video, I was looking for a replacement for my old 3/8" impact wrench and was holding out for Parkside to sell their one in the UK so I could use the same 20v battery as other tools I have (which includes their 1/2" impact wrench). Unfortunately it's still not available so decided to give the impact driver a go using socket adapters. I've seen this done with other brands of impact drivers and was quite impressed by how well it works. Granted it's going to struggle with a really tight bolt but then I've had this with more expensive 3/8" impact wrenches. I've found it has more than enough torque for 8mm and 10mm hex and Allen head bolts found on vehicles so for me I now have a tool I can use for both automotive and construction jobs.

@@Matt-hj4mw Good question. I presume you're referring to the type fitted to the Puch Maxi. It would need a manifold fabricated but it should work. The Tomos 4hp outboards actually had Bing carbs fitted as standard. The barrel was different to the A3 but not sure if the manifold bolt spacing was the same?

@@Themoporium Thx very much for help.Actually have a Ecanrwi carb,but I have problem with idle speed.I'm trying to set it up on the throttle cable adjust nuts,but nothing helps.Drives normally but when I stop.My engine it stops working.and i have to kick start it again.

@@Matt-hj4mw Next video is actually going to be an alternative encarwi carb for the Tomos A3.

@@Themoporium Thx for help.

​@@Matt-hj4mwEncarwi carbs are notoriously bad. It is best to put in a new jet and float. A alternative is to mount a dellorto carb (later models of A3 had delloro carbs from the factory, more specificaly Dellorto 14/12).

@@Matt-hj4mw the Puch maxi had larger 17" wheels. There are some Tomos models that had 17' wheels but not the A3 and A35.

@@Themoporium Thx very much.

@@Gvinti fitting a big bore kit can lead to getting carried away with the need for more power. The stock bottom end will handle a 65cc kit with sha15:15 carb and decent exhaust no problem but I would recommend changing all the bearings and seals first and making sure the clutches are in decent condition. They will handle the power of a 65cc kit but if you're pinning the throttle all the time or go for a lot more performance upgrades they will fail. The 50 kit is actually based on the stock A35 barrel but being aluminium is lighter providing a better power to weight ratio. I've actually made a manifold to use a stock A3 encarwi carb with an A35 barrel and was surprised how well it works. The stock carb for this set up is a dellorto sha14:12 so they have the same i.d but the reed valve manifold is better than the A3 one. You also got to remember stopping. Nobody does better brake kits for the Tomos A3/A35 so you need to start swapping wheels, forks and swingarms.

@@Rooster---ooo I'm actually looking at getting another as it's been fantastic for working on cars and bikes with a hex to 3/8 socket adapter. I can have one for woodworking and the other for automotive work.

@@tonyburns8894 yeah I realised that after I edited the video. They're actually USB 3.0 looking at the notches on the plug. When it was just A and B type USB it was easy to remember but now there's 3.0, USB C, mini usb, micro usb and micro usb B (which looks like a shorter version of A/3.0) it gets a bit confusing. Well spotted though👍

Only power tool that's let me down so far was the 240v reciprocating saw. It failed way to quickly even with just domestic use which is what the green Parkside tools are mainly intended for. The 20v X Team reciprocating saw has been great though and is really well made. As for drill bits, the sets of 10 HSS ones for metal working, wood working and masonry have been really good but the large set of HSS metal working bits in the black box was quite disappointing. The set of 3 step drills are quite good value though as are the 125mm cut off and flap disc's.

My original one with removable 12v pre X Team version did that but only with a low battery? I'd only used nicad power tools before so thought it was faulty at first, but after a bit of research I found out it was due to the BMS protecting the lithium battery from running completely flat. It'll also did this if the pack was too warm. All li-ion tools will do this so I always charge them up as soon as they drop to the red battery status and let them cool between jobs. As for torque, I use mine for polishing and shaping ports on cast iron cylinder barrels with rotary burr's but never had a power issue. I expect if you use it for cutting through metal it might struggle. I try to avoid this as the little cut off wheels scare the crap out of me if they break😬.