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Probably a old video... I hope! 😝

Nein, noch nicht. Nach zwei jahren vielleicht…

Hello Fransesco, That is quite steep. It can go whole hill on EV, lower speed and decent amount of battery left…but there is no guarantee it will use only EV. It is more likely to use only EV if there is not sudden acceleration…and you can also put off air con and whole blower which helps it stay in EV… But I think it rarely is that loud few meters away when engine is on. On full acceleration, it can be bit loud… Of course sometimes engine uses higher revs on steep hill, even on lower speeds / low acceleration…but it more low load high revving…shouldnt be very loud few meters away. If I can find good place to film external sound like that, I try to film it. But no promises, because it is difficult to find this kind of location for me…

If you crawl at lets say 10-15km/h without sudden acceleration (instant pushing on the throttle, i strongly recommend using ECO mode for this since it loosens the throttle pedal to be more forgiving) it should climb on battery only without issues. 30meters isn't long as long as you have at least 50% battery left . As for consideration of buying it. It's a beautiful car and so well made You will love it

@@jonibeebeesplaytime Hello Joni, Thank you very much for your kind and helpful response and for your willingness to look for a steep climb in your beautiful Finland. I once drove from Tornio to Kivilompolo to go to the North Cape. Beautiful memories of Sweden, Finland and Norway. It was July, so I didn't see all that white snow that I see in many of your videos. Returning to the beloved engines, undecided whether to make the "final step" to fully electric, I like the feeling of driving electric with a combustion engine that works like a generator (with the exception of the clutch that engages in certain situations in the HRV). Nissan's E-Power system would be my favorite, but I would stay away from direct injections, turbos and the worst crankshaft with mechanisms to vary the compression ratio. Mazda MX 30 R-ev would be another option conceptually, but I don't have much confidence in the Wankel's reliability. Thanks again for your videos which, together with POVs, are the best for understanding the real functioning of a car, instead of the dozens of videos on TH-cam which are simply "advertisements". Greetings from Italy. Francesco

@@TheZaxes-md8zb Hello TheZaxes, Thanks to you too for your reply and your appreciated suggestions. Greetings

I have owned an HRV in advance trim for 8 months and it is fantastic. Greetings from the Canary Islands (Spain), where we rarely see snow

There are many models, Magnas, Sabres, Interceptors with many engine sizes…most are really realiable if looked after at least decently. ’82 & ’83 models, especially 750 Interceptor had some issues…most models ’84 year model got some fixes (cam/valve train clerance fixes, but not yet line bored cams) and ’86 models got line bored cams. VF1000R had even gear driven cams. And of course (I think all) VFR’s (750’s and 400cc) before ’98 year model had gear driven cams. My VF500F Interceptor ’84 has already done 83700km without any rebuild and still going strong. I just filmed acceleration test on it and revved it to 12 000 revs 😅. I dont rev to 12 000 that often, even I think it can handle it…but most important I think is to not rev too much on cold engine and also not keep revs too low after start up and cold engine…and actually never longer times, even with warm engine. Early VF’s have good enough oil flow if revs are not too low (shouldnt be below 3500 revs for longer time, especially if there is engine load)(maybe good rule of thump is to keep at least 1/3 of max revs as minimum and shouldnt be over 2/3 of max revs for extended time 🤔)…quite common with many early 80’s motorcycles. Good luck on your search!

Yes, we are. When you film and only sound is from driving…what volume level should you use when watching it…what is loud? You can record sound, but there is no universal correct sound level…even db doesent mean how loud it appears to be. For e.g. Tom Scott made good video about it. I tried to always include sounds like turn signal indication sound and sliding hand on steering wheel to give some comparison, but it’s not perfect either since youtube also auto adjusts sound levels. I have done a lot of testing with this and badically all the sound I have filmed is there when I focus listening it while driving…but if I dont focus on it, I dont really hear it…or I dont notice it at least. I test drove BMW i4 M50 on autumn, but couldnt film it. To the ear, it sounded similar to HR-V, maybe slightly less loud on higher speeds…but I was surprised it was not much quieter than HR-V. Of course it is difficult to make quiet EV, engine doesnt mask any wheel or wind noise… Hopefully I can film more cars in future to give better comparison. I had some oppertunity before to test new CR-V and ZR-V, but couldnt because of work situation (busy from winter to summer and then just before summer…over month of work without any freetime, just varely time to eat, take shower and sleep 😅)

Mic is inside of closed bonnet, of course it will be loud 😅

There is not much grip, so it wants to slide all the time…but it was quite easy to feel the grip and control slide

@@jonibeebeesplaytime 👍👍👍

How is hard braking in the snow..will it stop or slide ??? I live in the UK, and have one of these cars, and I love it, but not been out in snow and ice yet .

I averaged 5.5 liters per 100km/h. I drove a lot highway last winter, which increased average comsumption a bit…

@@jonibeebeesplaytime Thank you. That's great numbers. 🙂 I got 5.6 on my first fuel tank, in the summer. 😂 I also drive a lot of highway, 110 km/h.

Probably Continental Viking Contact 7…or good studd tires

Goodyear Ultragrip Ice 2, 225/50 R18

Gasket sets. Unfortunately this was advertised to fit ’84 version 32mm keihin but it was for later 30mm keihin…luckily all other than ”between airbox and carb ”D” shape o-ring was same and fit well. Usually first time doesnt hold gas, needs readjusting some gasket and resetting float heights to get it right…at least for me 😅 🤞

@@jonibeebeesplaytime let me know if you’d like some measurements for those. I took some before installing mine 🤘🏽

Yes, correct...almost 84 000km now.

@@jonibeebeesplaytime That's awesome, way too many of these bikes didn't make it past 10k miles because of poor maintenance. I'm on my second engine, the original dropped a valve at 13k miles. Current engine has about 29k miles on it and runs like new. I put all new valves and springs in this one about 9k miles ago when I installed it. I bought my bike new back in 1984 and I'm STILL riding it. Best of luck to you.

No choise, some previous owner had already changed it

th-cam.com/video/N88nfDRgx1o/w-d-xo.htmlsi=jV-ACynqvx5oSFzs

Goodyear Ultragrip Ice 2 (studdles). It is good in all conditions, but ice grip is not the best, especially lateral grip is lacking. Feedback also isn't the best. Decent on slush. Good on snow and great on wet asphalt. I would like to have tires with bit better ice grip, lateral grip and feedback...but these tires work well and haven't cause any issues.

@@jonibeebeesplaytime Thank you for info. I use Continental TS870P. It's not bad in the snow. Expectedly weak on the ice. I can confidently say about this tire that it is round and black.

Dacia in general uses previous generation Renault drivetrain. It depends, I had Renault Talisman 1.6 petrol (TCE150), that engine was good (at least until 85 000km when I sold it). According to customer feedback, that engine is strong (and it is not undersized for Talisman at least, that is always important that engine sizing is correct for car weight and intended use). EDC Dual clutch transmission probably quite durable also (but not the smoothest). e:HEV have been bit longer on market on other regions... Pricing seems to be given by Honda, because it is always same and haggling is down to offer from possible exchange car and interest rate (korko). Difference to Toyota is that Toyota has Toyota financing. I got almost identical interest rate as Toyota financing offered at that time...probably due high trust rate (AAA) of dealer (financing was by bank). HR-V is (or at least was when I bought) here about 36 000e starting, 40 000e for Advanced and 42 000e for Advanced style.

It is full hybrid, self charging. There is no EV button, so it rarely drives longer period in EV mode (sometimes drives few kilometer on EV, highway or downtown). Letting car choose results also lowest long term consumption in Lexus / Toyota (I have own and tested many in long term). It is possible to turn off interior blower / heater / cooler / a/c completely and drive usually on EV for few kilometers (if you need to move car short distance).

Sorry, cannot do it now at least before June, because of work situation (major shut down project). Apologies for delay in answering.

@@jonibeebeesplaytime no worries i will wait. Thanks man!

FWD. No AWD available in Finland for HR-V.

no 4x4 but AWD and only FWD is available for Europe due to emission restrictions.

Car it self has good mechanical grip, weight distribution is good (slightly front heavy). Since it is slightly front heavy, it doesn't understeer much (unless going to roundabouts way too fast) and stability control allows bit of oversteering (which I like). I was originally bit concerned of quite large (for this car size and weight) 18" inch wheels (225/50 tires), but it seems very well suited for this car. For e.g. I had 1st gen Subaru XV (17" wheels, 225/55...or 50 tires), that car weighted similar amount and it did not have enough weight for that surface area of tires...I had issues with lateral grip due that. On '22 HR-V, lateral grip is good, tire surface area seems just correct. I use Goodyear Ultragrip Ice 2 studdless tires, which are optimized for wet (and cold) asphalt and snow use, not for ice so much...and lateral grip is not great (especially on icy roads)...still, car is very good to drive during winter. Despite my HR-V is only FWD, overall it is actually better than Subaru XV I had. Which is quite surprising...but it shows, how important it is to get balance of car correct and to have good mechanical grip. I only experienced major tire slipping few times a winter (supercooled rain), accelerating from stand still from traffic lights (other cars had same amount or more issues...only few AWD cars were doing better)...still no issues. On this car, modulating power to wheels is very controllable. Power comes to wheels from electric motor always from accelerating from stand still or lower speeds...and very rarely and only higher (60 - 90 km/h) speed directly from engine. Hill Descent Control works really well. I was surprised how good it is. At first I was bit concerned if it will lock up front wheels on icy hills if Hill Descent Control is used...but I have not ever noticed any wheel lock-up. Same for using paddle "shifters" (deceleration / regen control adjustment) to slow car on icy-, slushy- thick snow roads...it seems to automatically adjust level of deceleration just slightly to prevent wheel lock-up, feels to be always on the edge of grip...very good and confidence inspiring. I use brake pedal typically just when coming to full stop, otherwise I use throttle and paddles (to fine-tune) to slowdown and brake. I have these videos about hill descent control; th-cam.com/video/SC5vPThaYLU/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/Q8WElzCWvyU/w-d-xo.html

@@jonibeebeesplaytime Thanks for the replies 👍👍👍

Because I use paddles to adjust decelaration /regen for same purpose, but I can get it exactly as I want. Typically I only brake sligthly at the very end of coming to stop. If there woudn’t be paddles, I would use B mode. On steep slower hills I use Hill Descent Control.

Because I use paddles to adjust decelaration /regen for same purpose, but I can get it exactly as I want. Typically I only brake sligthly at the very end of coming to stop. If there woudn’t be paddles, I would use B mode. On steep slower hills I use Hill Descent Control.

Yeah, nice handling bike and very smooth engine…good for crusing around and driving faster on tigther roads. I just ran engine first time in 6 months yesterday when changing oil, oil filter and coolant. Fired up almost immediately (once I figured how much choke it needs). Run very well immediately, just needed bit idle speed adjustment. I’ll make another acceleration test later this summer with 520 chain and sprockets, it is now using…

@@jonibeebeesplaytime There is one for sale here.... should I buy! :D

@@jonibeebeesplaytime I know what you mean about learning just how much choke it needs on any particular cold startup. I usually pump the choke twice and then leave it 3/4 and start. Works 90% of the time to start right up. Other times, if the weather is pretty warm, it can get a little bit fussy. Love the old bike.

Really warm car, heats quickly. Keeps temperature constant (on normal mode, which I use). Engine usually starts immediately on cold starts during winter to produce heat for cabin (which also heats air cooled batteris) and charge batteries, so in my opinion overall all energy use (fuel or electricity) is managed well with not much loss. I had Lexus CT200h years ago, compared to that one…especially winter overall energy efficiency in this HR-V is much improved. I also drove many times 2020’s Lexus IS300h and NX300h, both were improved on older CT200h, but still not as efficient during cold winter use as HR-V e:HEV…Lexuses had CVT of course, HR-V has no gearbox at all. A viewer reported icing on rear side windows when it’s really cold (-20…-25C) and 4 adults in the car. With 2 adults, no issues even -28C (I tested). On rare foggy conditions (few times a year) I have had to use front window heating button (blower + heating elements on wiper area and left side (where wiped snow generally collects) to clear windscreen from fog…which happened in few seconds.

Enfin un bruit de conduite qui n’est n’y couvert par des paroles, ni par de la musique ! Lorsque j’ai vu cette voiture pour la première fois, je suis tombé en amour comme dirait nos cousins les Canadiens. Je suis français et le traducteur automatique n’est pas fatigué lors de votre reportage 😅😊

Goodyear Ultragrip Ice 2 (studdless) for winter use and Michelin Primacy 4 for summer use. Both 225/50 R18. Summer wheels/rims are what came with car (Enkei, Japan) and winter wheels/rims are Honda optional wheels/rims (Speedline, Italy). I have ”posting” on my channel about both wheels/rims, if you are interessed.

Thanks. I think all Honda VF and VFR has potential to sound really good with (sound wise) correct silencer (muffler). I hope too! I have been working on my ’84 VF500F Interceptor during winter. It was in good running order, but I wanted to do a lot of inspections and correct routing of cables and wires etc., which actually changes nothing but required a lot of dismantling. Just wanted it to be as close to as it was originally build. Soon about to start engine first time after 6 months and dismantling a lot. Anxious times… Actually I planned to change my VF500F silencers also, to something more bass sounding type silencer. I had something planned, but that I need to postpone to future due time constrains…

Thank you. It was bit longer project because of all the planning and double checking. For e.g. searching sprockets took quite some time, because I had to compare sprocket schematics from online manual one by one, which one would match fitting and clearance dimensions. I just made post on TH-cam about original sprocket design from manual. Original rear sprocket probably was lighter than my old JT sprocket’s rear sprocket (which is design that fits (at least) two different mounting dimensions and has enough material for probably 200bhp… Do weight savings against original sprocket design would probably just be what thickness difference of 530 vs 520…if I remeber correctly, difference of thickness (and therefore weight, if same material composition (density)) is about 1/3.