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I'm about to finish my total rebuild V-Max......looks brandnew. I did the carbs on the bench, total rebuild and synchronised them as precise as I could. 3 turns out and tomorrow when the battery comes it's first start after i previously tested the carbs before taking the bike apart....at that time it ran on choke only and I discovered they messed with the settings and on the bench I could see the carbs where not in sync. So I hope the bench sync works. Off course I use Haynes, the big book with coloured pictures.

The carbs are way easier to get off and work on than it looks,, don't be afraid!!

Air leak suggest right bank of carbs Check rubber mounts for cracks and tighten clamps

Drill out the brass plug at the bottom of the carb cap. Count the turns in on all 4, then play around backing them out. Mine were all out at 5 turns, I know,,,,,too many but at 4 turns out it was starting to bog. Time for a cleaning.

jetting/ fuel mixture is off

Hmmm u got a great find bro… u r genious… could even think there might be th problem :-D

Nice White Catfish! Good size one too.👍

How much of this is orginal ? I think you should alter the text to " Upgraded JR Voyager E"

Great one! Nice HK fix!!!

A really nice job!! Well done. 👍🏼

Ahhhh the original Voyager...i just picked up a used one in excellent shape with a ton of parts...Fly's pretty Darn good i must say...i enjoyed your Video...you still have yours?

Did you ever figure out what the problem was?

I'd say clogged pilot circuit. If the carbs are synched and the idle is at 1000 rpm and everything is right it should not take so long to drop to idle. Sounds like the idle screw is turned in to compensate for the poor tune state. I'd check the pilot circuit. There are 2 pilot air jets and like 4 holes under the vacuum chamber cover that are part of it. They are easy to get blocked and will cause all sorts of troubles.

In a forum you said you made ​​a mod with canopy gommet. Where exactly you place the gommet please ? Thanks

fernominal is mistaken. All 4 carbs are feeding their respective cylinders at all times. V boost kicks in at 6000 rpm and the butterfly valve between cylinders 1 and 2 and the one between cylinders 3 and 4 open up which allows 2 carbs to feed each cylinder during their intake strokes. Opening the butterfly valves from idle actually detracts from horsepower because the cylinder cannot process that much raw fuel at low rpm. Someone made a lot of money selling the idea of bypassing the servo motors.

nice goldfish. :-) why the treble hook?

I put the stock main jets in she’s running like a bat out of hell. Last weekend was the 1st time I've ever felt the V-Boost kick in.. DAMNNNN that thing is fast.. You'd better hold on tight cause it’s a kick in the ass.. I’m just doing some other fixes now. The previous owner put some compound on the screws around the bike and locked the parts in place. I had to use a jig saw to remove one that was stopping me from removing my fuel tank.

$15 bucks to get back and forth to work for a week vs $60 using the car.

Well, Mercury filled tubes are no longer legal to sell. I used the Sync Master Pro (blue liquid). I got them all synched up.. The real problem I found was that the previous owner put too small of main jets in the carbs. I thought I had it nailed down when I found my carb boots were cracked but it made no difference until I found the jets installed where WAY too small for that size engine and power. Not the bike has plenty of power.

Like I said; set idle speed to 1500rpms, (change out, or use up fuel) Put Premium fuel in it. (97octn) My VMX12 would run the quarter mile in the upper 10s, lower 11s. I had Nology HotWires Performance Spark Plug Wires on mine, that really makes a difference! Get some! (after you get it running decent,) and you will see the difference! Go to holeshot.com and ask them about what you can do to fix your ride.

Why did you buy a V-Max to save on gas?? (mine only got 110 miles per five gallon tankful??)(The new Harley Dynaglide gets around 325 miles per five gallon tankful.)

Yea something is'nt right! Also make sure the carb (shown) on the right is getting fuel. It's a headache, but keep checking what the engine needs, fuel, compression, spark/fire, exhaust.

Fuel tank is in the frame under seat. Follow the fuel line (from tank) to your fuel pump, and make sure its ok. It looks like the bottom right carb jet (on video) could be clogged.

RPMs on tach should be 1500 rpms. when it gets to 6500 rpms is when the V-Boost kicks in, and all four carbs are open together. (Try sticking your hand underneath the carbs, and manually moving the mechanism (with cable attached) and (standing on the left side of the engine) open and hold it there for a min and if your engine sounds like it has a full race cam, then it's OK. Drive it around and get all that bad fuel out. then clean spark plugs, and it should be fine.

If all of your carbs are Synchronized, (I hope that you used a mercury filled synchronizer for synchronizing all four carbs at the same time) only two carbs are being used at idle engine speed. That's why whn U cover up the lower carb on the right shown, it increases the vacume or the left carb. There's a cable running underneath the carbs (from throttle) that opens all four carbs at the same time. I set mine for all four cabs to be always open. (uses more fuel but sounds and runs awesome)

maybe some interference nearby, some of the newest security camera system, maybe from neighborhood is interfering, it happens to some of my heli. try moving to a different area far away from where you at. if the problem stays. send it back.

Working on it again tonight trying to resolve this power problem. While sitting there, tried to rev it up over 5K and it sound like it sucking in too much air and not enough fuel to burn. Sounds almost like all air around 5K. So tried to cut down on some of the air intake by putting the air box on and it rev’d consistently over 8K but still had no power when I test rode it in 2nd gear. If weather permits tomorrow, will check the new diaphragms

I asked the carb guys at vmaxforum (dot) net. Here's what I got. the holes he's covering are just empty little scoops. I think the carbs aren't tight enough, seated properly, or something like that, and the pressure is moving the throttle linkage

Got the bike last year to save gas. It was running much better then. Used Sta-Bil for the winter, (my mistake). Left a bunch of crap in my tank and needing a tow truck. Cleaned out the tank. Removed the carbs for a good cleaning, found a lot of crap in there. New diaphragms. Checked & cleaned fuel pump. Synced carbs. Checked plugs. Power loss around 4K RPM and above (Boggs down). 4K and below, has horse power. All other jets were seated. The pilot screw seems to be the only adjustable one(s).

i tried to reply to yourquestion on the video you commented on but was having issues. From the factory, they were all at different turns. If all you're doing is backing them out 2 full turns, to put them back you just turn them in 2 full turns. I can give you MY specific factory settings if you want

Thanks.. HobbyKing can make some really nice electronic devices, but some of the mechanical parts needs some serious work.. I had to modify the HK600 blade grips to hold the thrust bearing correctly.

thanks!

Putting around 7-8 min - Agressive 6 Min

what is the flight time max?

wow! Nice work!!!

Hey D, where is this field?

I found out that its the tail hub.. The hub was not drilled out strait, so the Hub sits on the shaft out of true center. I then found that two brand new ones were not 90 degrees center either. one of them are better than the other but both are not true.

Thats a great idea my fellow friend. I will try this and see. My friend put a better set of bearings in my 130X. I still have some vibration but much better. Please subscribe and I'll let you know or post a video with my findings. Thanks Bro, Doodboy1

Horizon development team saw my video and what I found with 3 of my own Tail Output shafts and 5 of my friends, along with all the other complaints about the vibrations, they halted production to investigate. They came out with WAY better centered tail output shafts. You should call them and order a new one, and ask for a replacement for the defective one that you have. That way, you'll have a spare, and you won't get one from the 1st batch that may still be in the Local Hobby Store.

After watching your video, I looked at mine. I think it might be off just by looking at it. I am a beginner but advancing fast. I don't want to take the tail a part if I don't have to. LOL but I want to see so bad if that piece is messed up. Should i send it back to the company?

Customer service means nothing to me if the product sucks out of the gate. Never forget the mCPx and it's first run blade grips that were flying off due to low quality bearings. What the heck are they thinking?

Nice observations guys. Too bad Horizons "engineers" couldn't figure that out for us before we dropped darn near 3 bills for a plastic helicopter. One would have thought they'd done a little R&D on this thing before they put it out. I fixed the problem, I shelved the piece of crap and bought a Walkera V120. It's what Horizon was trying to do but cut too many corners and failed miserably at. I can no longer support such a repetitive substandard product.

Nope.. There was a problem with the board. I emailed HK. They wanted to see the problem.. So I made this video. After they witnessed the problem, I sent it back to them, and got store credit. I refused to fly something that fails basic inspection. Radio problems is a big failure in my book.. Hope you get some resolution to your problem.

Where you able to fixed the problem? I have the same heli and I can't even fly it. Servos are messed up.

Someone asked, How did I remove the hub and if the Loctite is still holding.. I used my lathe to hold the tail shaft, while the opposing chuck held a steel pin to center. Just 1/4 turn and the hub released. There was green loctite in there already. This same thing can be done with a mini gear puller or a vice using a hollow steel sleeve to support the hub. I'm sure, heat will work also. So far, the green is holding but I'm gong to re-do it using a stronger Loctite to be sure.

Not any more.. If you take 3 of the canopy grommets and replace those robber o ring (that do nothing), you'll find your heli, rock solid thoughout the flight.

I think most of these come out of the factory messed up.

I can even see the T is not a T!!! :(

The tail really messe up otherwise a fanstatic heli.! Do you get the descending shake at idle up 1 or 2? My whole heli shakes like crazy each time I do fast descend from high up the sky. Last night ive put on the canopy grommets on the swash and mcpx grommets cut in half on the tail slider and grips. I'll try it out today......

I found out that its the tail hub.. The hub was not drilled out strait, so the Hub sits on the shaft out of true center. I then found that two brand new ones were not 90 degrees center either. one of them are better than the other but both are not true. So, chances are, yours is not strait either.