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Thanks John! I wish we could have made more this season. Expanding the nursery has been our primary focus during 2024. Have a merry Christmas and happy new year buddy! I’ll see you in the spring!

We have been active and offering cuttings over the last month. However my final listing for 2024 was this past Sunday. I’ve finished winterizing the nursery and I’m preparing for my own winter break. We will be back in March 2025!

These trees did not suffer any die back whatsoever last winter. I know the temperature went down as low as 8 F. I didn’t protect them at all. This winter is looking like it may get cold so we’ll see. 🤞

@@TravelingGardeners Let us know. I'll be watching.

I sell trees in these containers locally. All of the trees we ship are grown and sold in 4”x12” or 5”x12” tree pots. Thanks for supporting our channel!

Most of the nodes on the new growth pushed out figs. The node spacing was wide since it grew so fast but definitely a lot of figs. Explains why it’s a commercial variety in France. I think next season is going to be amazing.

Thanks! I love talking figs.

@TravelingGardeners Do you sell rooted Figs ? and do you have a nursery. I am in Northern NJ Sussex County zone 6b. Thanks again.

@@petarbubalo231 Yes we are a nursery located in Southampton NJ, specializing in fig trees. We're only offering cuttings this time of year. We will begin selling trees again in spring. You can find us on Figbid as Travelinggardeners .

Thank you!

@@jessiep319 Thank you for the constructive feedback. I will definitely keep this in mind for future projects. When I shape my trees at this stage the primary focus is maintaining the open center and preventing crowding among the branches. I try to keep the branching at the end of each scaffold evenly spaced. This is to provide air flow and light penetration. When I’m making the cuts I’m choosing a bud that is positioned to grow out and away from the center of the tree while maintaining space from the nearest branches. The end goal is to evenly fill the circumference of the tree’s reach with branches. Keeping in mind not to over crowd it. I can normally do this when I allow the evenly spaced main scaffolds to split into 2-3 smaller branches. Try to keep the final height on a similar vertical plane. But not at the expense of keeping the proper bud. It ideally points towards the direction you want next season’s growth. I do have some other videos in our pruning playlist that break down establishing scaffold branches in the first 2 seasons. Thanks again Chris

Thanks I’m glad you liked it. If you have any requests for short or long term projects/videos let me know. When I have some time I’ll see what I can do. Chris

@@jeffatherton7151 yes we do. We are a licensed nursery and ship to most of the US. I will be offering some cuttings and bare root trees toward the end of this and next month. You can find us on our Facebook page Traveling Gardeners. We are also TravelingGardeners on figbid. We’re building toward a website in the future. Temps have still been pretty warm in NJ. I won’t prune until the trees are dormant. I expect that will be early December.

@ Thank you

I have only applied it to fruit trees. Also, I wouldn’t say this is an overwinter technique. Fig roots do not grow over winter when it’s cold. They can survive as long as they don’t get too cold. For figs temps below mid 20’s may damage the roots. I don’t want to discourage you but a fall to spring air layer is unlikely to work. Unless you live somewhere with a warm winter. You will probably need a few months of the summer growing season. Good luck!

@@PukaHeadMan In my opinion all of the CDD figs are exceptional. The flavors are great but it’s the extremely thick texture that really sets them apart. Plus they have really nice growth patterns. They are vigorous and don’t grow suckers too often. It’s pretty easy to achieve tree form. I’m trying to collect them all. I have most at this point. Now I just need to finish fruiting them. I would recommend if you are in zone 7 or less keep them in a large pot. You will get your fruit like a month or more earlier vs in ground.

@@hongbeaven4020 The trees in this video are planted in 55 gallon barrels. The bottoms of the barrels have been removed. Essentially they are individual raised beds and the trees are in ground.

@@Batchat2352 That is a really high success rate. Well done! As your trees mature the quality will improve dramatically. In my opinion 1st season trees should only be allowed to fruit if you are trying to confirm the variety. I know we are all eager to eat as many figs as possible. However the trees benefit greatly if allowed to concentrate only on root and wood growth.

@@TravelingGardeners im trying to confirm what im keeping and putting in 10 gal pots. They have filled their 5 gal pot pretty well

@@WheelchairFruitHunter These trees are inground. They are planted in 55 gallon barrels that have the bottoms removed. Basically individual raised beds. Pastiliere does drop main crop fruit the first couple seasons. It doesn’t drop the breba.

Yes. Sometimes I use tree pots as my air layer containers.

@@steveg572 glad I could help. You're gonna love those CDD's. They a little more challenging to ripen but worth the effort. They're some of my absolute favorites! Good luck!

@@tlnelson7598 December after they are completely dormant.

The trees will fill any size pot you choose. The amount of roots you have is the most important factor in determining the size of the tree. More roots equal more tree. It may take a whole season or two to fill out a pot. The tree will grow vigorously at first and then slow down as the pot fills or the end of the season approaches.

@@KLewis-jg1fk Now is a great time to put on the last ones for the season. Roots grow fast in July and August. I'm working on my final batch.

We are a fig tree nursery. If your interested in purchasing any of our trees check out our Facebook business page. You can find us as Traveling Gardeners on Facebook.

That was the Olympian. It was a sugar/brown sugar sweetness. The Mary lane was honey sweet. I know I'm not the best at describing all the flavors. I concentrate mostly on growing them. I have some Negra d'Agde available right now you can send a message to our facebook page. facebook.com/profile.php?id=100091500199454

@@bobmiller2281 Figue de Sollies

@@hilariobaeza6409 Thank you!

@@johnplatt4848 you absolutely could do that. However if you do not need additional trees that would be a waste of energy and your limited time during the growing season. An air layer will set this particular tree back about 8 weeks or more. But your correct, you could produce another tree. It really depends on your goals.

Absolutely up pot them now. Try not to disturb too many roots in the process. If you have encircling roots try to loosen them with your hands but I wouldn't cut them. That is for dormancy. Even this small amount of activity with the roots will likely cause your tree to go into shock for a short time. Could be a day or two. Make sure it's moist and in full shade or darkness while the leaves are drooping. If the drooping leaves are in the sun they will likely burn up. After a little time the leaves will come back from the droop and then it's time to place in the shade for a week or so. After that partial sun for another week. If all looks good then back to full sun. As far as pinching the best results are achieved with proper timing. Your trees are way past the ideal time to establish scaffolds by pinching. I would consider placing an air layer. Do it just above the nodes you want to be your scaffolds. Once you remove the air layer those nodes will activate and push out those scaffold branches. There is still enough time in the season for all of this. Pinching the very tip of your central leader is also a good idea if you want to slow down that excessive vertical growth. It will help to thicken up the tree and encourage lateral branching. If you aren't interested in an air layer you can just top the tree. It will almost certainly survive. I would do that after it has acclimated to the larger pot. During the partial shade week. Good luck!

@@TravelingGardeners Thank you very much for the detailed advice. I've up potted about half of them. They are now in full shade (under the carport roof). I'm planning to do the rest this coming Friday after work if time permits. Otherwise, over the weekend. I top dressed with some amendments (a handful of bone meal and blood meal; a full cup of oyster shell, and a cup of lime). Hopefully, that will reduce the shock time and restore vigorous growth. I'm just a backyard hobbyist. I don't have room for many duplicate trees. However, I've watched your air layering videos and I may try to do a couple for the experience. Again, I think your videos are very helpful to new fig growers like me. Perhaps the best on TH-cam! I appreciate you taking the time to produce them and respond to my questions. Wishing you much success this growing season.

@@Scott-hl7om thank you! We have alot more information about growing figs on our Facebook page Traveling Gardeners. If your interested.

The fruit will not be affected until you separate the air layer from the mother tree. If your root mass is substantial the figs may still ripen after separation. You can also separate after ripening. I ofter do it during dormancy.

Originally I planted in the barrels because we have a very high water table on our farm. I didn't want my figs to have wet feet.

Thank you!

I plant them in a mix of 50/50 local topsoil and homemade compost. They also give them compost tea.

I don't know if this technique will work on persimmon. I have successfully air layered pear and apple. You should do some Google searches and see if anyone does this with persimmon. But I guess if you have 250 of them who better to experiment. Let me know how it goes. Good luck!

Compost tea. About every 10 days throughout the first half of the season. Toward fall I slow it down and water less. My compost is home made and aged, very broken down. It's practically soil.

I just started a cutting this spring.

@@TravelingGardeners OK, wish you all the best then. Cheers.

I've not heard of the book. I'll have to check it out. I started shaping this way a few years ago. It just seemed to make sense not to allow them to grow in placed you don't want. Conservation of energy.

@@TravelingGardeners It's in French, but there might be a translated version or translation tools to manage understanding the text. It's dealing with many fruit trees species allas not the fig tree ; but the overall information is thorough about growing fruit trees. Yes, keeping trees to an average size helps to maintain them easily allowing better fruiting & fruit pickings afterwards. I found out the meaning about air layering ; it's marcottage aérien. All the best.

😆

Thank you! I don't know about starting over. As long as your trees are productive. I just looked at some of you videos. Your figs look great! Seems you are on the right track.

I attribute the high quality I get late in the season to my Fighouse. We use a significant amount of thermal mass and the Fighouse is designed to hold in the heat around the bases and roots. Our CDDM was at the end of it's second season when I filmed this video. We are really looking forward to what she'll do this year. You might consider growing your CDDM on it's own roots. I have found it to be a grower. It is on of my more vigorous varieties. Much more vigorous than brown turkey.

Thanks for watching!

Glad it was helpful!