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lol yes i am blessed with no rust. also turn the sound on at 1:19

@geriatricpearl cool.. missed that 😝

great tips! I typically stare at the oil filter for a solid minute with the engine runnning (same for the drain plug) bc I'm so OCD. forgot to include that in the video though! 😆

@@geriatricpearl PS, I saw this Russian car channel where they setup a clear panel on a engine to show what would happen if you over fill the motor oil. Turns out you really have to go crazy overfilling to actually cause damage. I'm also OCD about it, but it eases the mind.

@@Being_Joe lol are you me? i watched that video too! the OCD is real haha

front brake video posted!

@ you are my hero.

i will be uploading the front brakes tutorial hopefully by this weekend! just need to finish editing! make sure you subcribe if you haven't already 😀

my front brake video is posted 👍

@@geriatricpearl Cool...Can't wait to watch it

😂😂

you're exactly right - just do everything up until 5:07. I wish I would've mentioned that in the video! I would also do a very quick bleed after you've started the truck and the AHC resets back to N.

@@geriatricpearl Thanks great video btw!

it brought it back to spec! before I replaced the sensor, the rear end of my truck would raise and lower itself over and over as soon as I put it in park. It got so bad that any time I would park, I would turn AHC off. replacing the sensor fixed that problem!

I appreciate that!!

thank you for the kind words! I did the rear sensor without jacking up the truck at all - I just put the AHC in "H" and slid under (you should always put jackstands under the axle or frame just in case, but i did not get the tires off the ground. so the jackstands were there as a failsafe). as long as you turn the truck off before you get underneath, there shouldn't be any reason why the suspension would lower itself while you're under there. the rear sensor is super easy! I haven't had to do the fronts, but they shouldn't be too bad. you got this!!

Thank you dear again. Yes it was super easy. Changed first all 3 sensors and the fault was the rare sensor which caused all the bumping and malfunctioning. The long story with the AHC malfunctioning, which took me almost a month till yesterday, is over. Now it works properly. You know, i was quite sure that it has to do with accumulators and diagnosed it with OBD and got low pressure in the system. So i inspected all 4 accumulator globes, were good and pencil test done, were all pure and fitted them back. Then the most difficult journey started with the accumulator pump...i can't tell you all $ and energy it costed me to get new part from US to Ethiopia, big theater with border security in DC airport, they took it away on passenger flight as it has compressed gas inside and payed 1000usd Dangerous good Air cargo shipment...tax in Addis Ababa 500 usd , buying price with the sensors from toyota dealer in usa payed 2500 usd ...😢 Then tried to take out the old pump, that is almost IMPOSSIBLE! ...Two Bolts are under chassis where you can't access them , killing. .. that was all done and the oil line bolt rusted and damaged to gett it off, used all available Special sprays ( rust off ) didn't help and i cutted it -off and weld it back with new bolt. New pump fitted back and big surprise,... didn't work still, AHC failed to lift the front side and rare side lifted Tooooo high as the begging. Tried all to check But finally...finally where i almost lost the hope where to get the couse , by chance I saw your video and thought let me simply change all sensors, THAT WAS IT ! YES It was the RARE Sensor it coused the problem. Many fellow people posted only accumulators changing as solution, and I think I'm the only one who changed the Height Control Accumulator pump , which i think is built for lifetime. Wasn't necessary at all in my case to change it. Thank you , i almost told you here all my journey with AHC researching, where i fill now I'm MASTER of it 😊 Happy to share my experience and i will continue taking care of my bloved Iron-Model j100. ❤....and enjoying it till we both get old 😊. Cheers!...

@@wubeyilak11 that is amazing!!! sorry to hear about all the trouble with the accumulator piston though... I'm so glad to hear I was able to help!

get the toyota one - it will even come in a box that says toyota and lexus on it.

yep! it's en.impex-jp.com/ or if you don't want to click the link, google "impex japan" and it'll be the first one.

if you follow all the steps in the video, you will be good to go! no set up or calibration required. I definitely noticed a smoother ride after replacing the globes.

were you able to get them out??

@@geriatricpearl yes that was easy my rotor seems to be harder to remove! I’ve been at it for 2days the are stuck lol

@@SteveM_LX470 wow! did you whack it with a brass hammer after you fully backed off the parking brake?

@@geriatricpearl I beat it like it owed me money.

@@SteveM_LX470 😂 are you sure you weren't tightening the parking brake? and the parking brake lever was down? seems odd for rust to be that strong!

nope! I never buy the lexus parts, in fact I think the parts are identical

mostly it was just really poor ride quality (feeling every single bump in the road), but also when I did a fluid change, the fluid level in the reservoir was still too low, which made me think one of the globes had a failed membrane (if the membrane fails, that globe will continue filling with fluid and the level in the reservoir will drop accordingly).

@@geriatricpearldo you feel that the issue has been resolved? Is the ride comparable to a newish style vehicle now? Thanks

@@TheNonnell it was a noticeable difference for me. I don't know what the ride was like as new, but it definitely improved my ride quality. I think I will need to change the LCAs and front shock bushings to really get it up to spec. if you are on the fence about it, you should first replace the sway bar end links for the front and rear. that doesn't cost much and it was also a really nice improvement (the rubber on those was trashed after 20 years).

@@geriatricpearl​​⁠thanks. I’ve already replaced those items you suggested and did an AHC flush and fill. I will eventually tackle the bulbs and hope that makes a more noticeable difference.

@@TheNonnell definitely worth it! and much cheaper than ripping out the ahc and replacing with standard suspension - that is, if you buy the globes from impex it's much cheaper. I would do it now while USD/JPY is at its peak.

nope! only one sensor for the entire rear.

here's the exact tool i used: amzn.to/45iP9HH I haven't done the fronts yet, but it is the very next thing on my list! thanks for watching!

thanks! I didn't have any driveability symptoms, but on a long road trip, my AHC sensor temporarily failed and I was riding on nothing but the bumpstops for a few miles and that caused both UCA boots to burst and they lost all their grease. So this was a preventative maintenance item for me bc I didn't want catastrophic failure of the ball joints. Also, it never hurts to have new bushings!

@@geriatricpearl Awesome man. Great to know.

that's a good question. if i were you i'd do a full fluid flush and see if there are any air bubbles in the fluid you're draining. if so, maybe one of your globe membranes failed. what do you mean about pressurizing the removed globe? also, tell me more about the bump on all four corners - what do you mean by that?

nope! don't need to jack the truck at all, in fact you shouldn't - in order to get all the fluid out of the globes, you need the truck to be able to sink down naturally. if you jack the truck, you won't bleed the globes completely and they will still be under pressure when you remove them and it could cause damage to the truck or worse, harm to you.

Awesome, thank you!!!

LCA is definitely on the to-do list, but I opted to replace the uppers first bc the boots were both busted. after attempting to press in the front diff bushing, i've kind of sworn off anything that requires a press tool, so when i do get to the LCAs, i'm just going to get new ones.

@@geriatricpearl I have the press tool and it still makes me nervous as to the amount of effort I will be expending removing those bushings, not so much the lower ball joint itself, I can tell you that it made a large impact on the driving experience compared to my upper control ball joints replacement. I am still on AHC, still smiling at how it rides so smoothly. I have a power steering hose drip at the rack and still trying to figure out the best way to approach replacement hoping not to have to remove the compressor. Thanks again for that tip on Impex, I have in the past had good luck with Megazip, and domestically in Dallas TX with Park Place Lexus online. Keep us updated on your projects. Cheers

@@markdaugherty6378 oh nice! in that case I might need to move them up the list. I've been trying everything to make the suspension as smooth as possible. And I love AHC!

@@geriatricpearl Jungle Cat made a series of videos about his take on suspension upgrades and their effects, worth visiting IMO. My take is that AHC likes a good bleeding about once a year to operate effectively and when doing the lower ball joints do the bushing in the lower shock arm, both sides were compromised, they are dirt cheap and easy to reach when doing the lower control arm/ball joint. I noticed after last summer's heat cycle my roof rack is begging for attention, I have never used it to haul anything. My two cents.

if you do everything as I described, you should be fine. dealer shops are notorious for being very uninformed about AHC, but if you have them do it, at least bring your own parts bc they will charge you over $4k for the globes alone.

Jack stands and some common sense and you should be fine.

i changed it because whenever i was in park, the truck would lower and raise itself over and over again unless I turned off AHC. replacing the sensor fixed the issue.

there should be no air in the system bc the pump isn't moving anything so that means the liquid you're draining is just the liquid that's present in the globes/accumulator/lines. you'll notice that I put new fluid in the resevoir before I opened the bleeder screws, but none of that new fluid ever came out. that's bc unless the pump is operating, the fluid in the globes/accumulator/lines is isolated from the rest of the system so when you drain them, yes there will be air bc there is no fluid, but once you turn on the engine the new fluid will fill that void until it compresses that air. then you crack the bleeder screws one last time and the air is forced out. but again, don't leave the bleeders open too long bc you need that new fluid - the air should escape immediately.

and it's important to leave the truck in Low when you first start the engine and crack the bleeders. if you were to put the truck back into N before bleeding the air, you could have issues as that air could travel back into the pump.

yessir. dealership markup is literally 1000% so I never thought I'd be able to afford new ones until I found Impex Japan. make sure you watch the last 2.5 min of the video to see what I mean with Impex.

@@geriatricpearl I bought from japan as well but for about $230 more. I'll keep this in mind changed out globes today that had 192k miles. All 4 seemed to still be working I plan changing the shocks as well. Fingers crossed it helps! Thanks again

@@H8UZNB8 are any of your shocks leaking? I would think those should be fine to leave as-is. That being said, I really really want new bushings on the shocks, but I just don't want to mess with them.

@@geriatricpearl right front was leaking so we replaced fronts. Probably do rears at some point and man those bushings were toast

@Do-iz6qd mine were around $850 for the set of 4, but then I received a $37 import fee from fedex so almost $900

thanks man!

thanks for the kind words! it will all make more sense when you're doing the job. the adjustment bolts can't really spin freely bc they have a big elliptical lobe on the bolt head and the bolt hole is surrounded by steel (friction points) for that lobe to catch on. it's kind of hard to explain. so yeah just draw a line or two on each adjustment nut (remember the adjustment nut is the part on the outside) and make sure you're drawing your lines onto the frame. in other words, there's also a big lobe on the adjustment nut, and you need to ensure you're dragging the marker from the lobe onto the frame so you have a reference point later. upon reassembly, it's easiest to line up the matchmarks from the outside using the adjustment nut. i think my use of "counterhold" was confusing there bc you really just need to use an adjustable wrench to get the marks aligned (by turning the adjustment nut), once aligned, keep holding it there with the wrench, and then tighten the outermost nut with a ratchet - you're doing all of this one the outside, without touching the bolt head. use the ratchet to make it tight enough to hold everything so you can use your torque wrench without messing up the matchmarks. this is probably making it sound complex, but it's not. don't worry about it too much, just get the job started and you'll see what i mean! it's easy.

thank you! that's a good question - the 19.75" is the consensus measurement for stock 100 series according to the ih8mud forum. so assuming you have no lift, that's the number to shoot for. if yours is currently 19.5" or somwhere around there, i would still jack up to 19.75 and then during reassembly you can just adjust the height control sensors up to get to the 19.75". or not, it's not a big deal if you're lower than 19.75". the part numbers shown are compatible with both land cruiser and lx470. in fact, my truck is an 05 lx470!