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@reevesautomotivefarm9614 very welcome. I'm glad to have a Nova fan here enjoying Camaro videos. Keep up the awesome work.

@@reevesautomotivefarm9614 will check it out

How do you get so many views and members on you page. What am I doing wrong?

@@CamaroRestoration My TH-cam channel literally has like I don't know 20 views so maybe Twitter I spend a lot of time there still don't have very many views but only have like 700 and something followers

@@reevesautomotivefarm9614 I totally thought Shop209 Nova Guy was your youtube page.

@@CamaroRestoration no I just got like two videos of my cat. I really need to put up some stuff on things that I have trouble finding on TH-cam but I'm pretty busy and my garage is a site, lol

@reevesautomotivefarm9614 so glad I could help. These panels are a hot topic and not a lot on line.

@CS-bw8pt Thanks for pointing this out. I wouldn't have looked it up if you didn't say anything. I checked the assembly manual and goes on the upper left bolt on the water pump. I'll make sure to put in the correct location when I install engine.

@CS-bw8pt Where is the 4th? There's the two radio ground straps on either side of the V8 engine and the frame to body. I couldn't find any other "ground strap". My Camaro doesn't have any options, so maybe my Camaro doesn't have the 4th. All the other grounds are associated with the wire harnesses and other components. No other stand alone copper wire groundstrap that I could find.

@@CamaroRestorationThat’s pretty common, not finding it. The 4th factory location is front passenger side inner fender to sub frame (below the battery). Most first gens have at least 1 hole drilled for this strap, some have both, some have both and a strap. Speculation is that assemblers skipped it sometimes because their bosses wouldn’t bother inspecting there. First gen manuals show it’s supposed to be there, though.

@@andrewpeyatt9542 your welcome. I enjoy making the videos and working on my Camaro even more

@@ChrisM-w7l Right... there magic and my little secret.

Nope... the shocks can be hand adjusted as you raise it up or down. Would be even easier to install when on the on the ground so you don't have to extend the shock out so far.

The gas tank removal is some of my older videos. just click on the 'Oldest' tab and see videos numbered 4. The installation is my most recent. There are also a couple more throughout when I painted it, that's about it.

welcome

By the way, it's spelled Grease not agrees.

Your very welcome.

I don't know. Chevy did a lot of changes in 70, so more than likely not.

Awesome R R and R wow, and to detail in video.... Thank you so much ... you're a valuable asset here

@@KittyBertandErnie welcome

Thanks Woody, glad to see you here.

Thanks, and you're welcome

your welcome

Its adjustable a little on the engine side to move around with the engine. It slides on to the ball at the engine and can move in/out and not fixed. The other side is bolted to the mounting bracket as a pivot point.

I don't know how much leeway there is between the ball and the end of the bar, but I do have some ware on the inside of the bar from the ball about 1.5" in from end of bar, so there is not much room for adjustment. The bar can pop out if the gap is too small.

I've got you covered... you never know. It maybe easy to remove and seem like a kids play, but sometimes it's about bolt placement.... does the nut go on top or the bottom. Some like those small details

@@CamaroRestoration you have that wrong also, the nuts go on the bottom

Thank you

,but the nuts go on top.

@@CamaroRestoration wrong again

Thanks, did not know that

No luck yet. Are you looking too?

@@CamaroRestoration yes I am. Broke one while removing it as well.

The four main wire harnesses are new. There are many plug and wires that connect to the main harnesses that are original.

Don't remember the brand, but used satin black.

That Is awesome. Glad I could help. They made a lot of changes in 69, but hope I can more as you work on it.

Satin black... if your mixing your own paint, the ratio should be 30% gloss

Great... so happy I could help

Good to know it helped. Sorry this particular video does not show me actively removing the bushing. Did my best to explain the process.

@@CamaroRestoration It was still useful. By any chance did you also make a video showing how you took apart the upper control arm? From other TH-camrs, it looks like either an air chisel or an open ended c clamp tool should work. I tried the air chisel and my bushings did not budge so I'm looking for a loaner on the other tool.

@@69pacecar I replaced the upper control arm bushings before I started the restoration, so no video. I would start with penetrating oil and let sit for 24 hours first. Air chisel will work, just watch the bushing to make sure your not deforming the casing. The casing can start to twist or pinch and damage the control arm and deform the bushing hole. Put on a good sturdy vice and hit the outer edge of the bushing casing. Rotate locations where you hit the casing if your fighting it. If one side don't budge, try the other side. If that doesn't work, you can also find some galvanized pipe or other strong tubing or large socket to place the outside of the busing in and stand the control arm up. Then pound from the inside of the bushing casing pushing it into the tube (if that makes any sense).

I used satin black... some use semi-gloss. I think the correct ratio is 70/30.

There is a small screw that holds the seal to the trim. You'll see that screw installation towards the end of this video. If that isn't working, the seal may need replacement. Its designed to hold itself in place, so either the seal is bad or maybe the chrome trim is bent and no longer pinches the seal properly. A cheap quick fix is a little bit of black caulking between the seal and trim at the top. Just enough to hold in place.

Very true and thank you. I try to do research on each part before I create the video, but at times, I couldn't find much on line so that is when automotive common sense comes into play. Although my means and methods might be a little crude, I try my best to do it correctly.

your welcome

So what if my ignition don’t turn at all

@mitchelllawrentz766 if it's original, then might be so warn, it not working...? Sorry, I wouldn't know what to do. Might have to get a lock smith.

@@CamaroRestoration it’s been sitting for 30 years lol

@mitchelllawrentz766 oh, well put some liquid graphite in there and see what happens

Not sure if you ripped it out, but if your trying to remove the driver side, don't forget there is a hidden screw behind the parking brake assembly. Can't remove the panel if the parking assembly is still on. If that is out, need to rotate the panel counter clockwise and then pull out.

Yeah, no instructions, but part of my original splash guards were still on the fenders and I even had notes to myself on how they go back on. I was excited to put them on and disregarded my notes. Attention to detail is important and I learned a good lesson.

Great, so happy that I can help. Keep the comments coming.

Thank you very much. So happy that I am helping others. I hope to start working on Camaro again in a couple weeks and lots more assembly videos to record. Good luck on your Camaro. I welcome any input others have, so please share your experiences too. I'm learning as I go.

Installing my new one was a pain. Was difficult to align and harder to push in. I guess is can depend on the brand of ball joint you get. Was your lower control arm and ball joint the original? Very surprised it fell out.

@@CamaroRestoration yes both top and bottom are original. I will also weld a plate under it.

You're welcome.

Rope caulk would work too. To me, the rope caulk seemed to be a little stiff to used in the larger quantities and i didn't think it would seal properly. Putty is softer. Would also guess it would depend on the quality of the putty. Not sure how old your putty was. There was not a lot of information on the material to use, so plumbers putty seemed to be the best choice.

I put about 1/2" layer of the putty, but I probably should have put more. The putty did squeeze out as I screwed down the panel, so I got a decent seal.

@@CamaroRestoration Thanks. I sourced some duct sealant putty that is knows as Dum Dum putty which is, apparently, what they used at the factory. I'll probably buy a few things and see what feels best at the time. I'm a ways off of putting the interior together but always looking ahead. Cheers!

I didn't know that, so you're a step ahead of me. Let me know how it goes.

That's great. Would hate to bend that.

Your welcome