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it worked for mine! thank you!

😂 thank you.

There is a fine set of fins at the bottom of the water heater where the combustion air enters the burn chamber that was coated in dust. Cleaned it off with a nylon bristle brush and a vacuum. No more errors.

I had to do reset procedure a couple of times before it went back to blue blinking light (Mine is either red means bad Blue means ok) But it worked 😮‍💨 So very glad... Praise God I just bought this last February.... It shouldn't have a problem this early in its life. It's pouring rain and I have to be outside with the water heater door open as I troubleshoot.... Was seriously thankful it works!!!

This helped me out, Thanks!

Love it. Rheem support sending me replacement parts meanwhile I stumbled upon this video and tonight we have hot water. 🎉

Thank you

My water heater had error codes 7 and the 2. I tried to relight the pilot light with no luck or I simply didn’t not hear or see it light. I turned my nub on very hot from pilot and the system reset itself up and somehow automatically reignited on very hot setting. 👍

Thank you for this video , I've never seen theissue before . And this works!

Them valves are trash compared to the metal ones so i wouldnt waste my time resetting it

That worked! Thank you!

Worked!!! Thanks

Wow, it worked for me. My pilot light would not come on and it was frustrating as hell because I I would go through the normal steps, but nothing would happen the pilot light come on. I tried the steps the first time I did not go back to hot, but I stopped on pilot. It didn't work so I just followed the steps as instructed and behold it work. Thank you so much.

Fantastic video. I could not afford any repairs right now.

Crazy this actually fixed my water heater lmao nice

Mine acted the same as yours. Odd, but I'll take it! 😊

You just saved me $200. Thanks! 👊

The procedure worked great for me one the first time

By golly it worked.

Thanks worked perfect for me

This works 😭😭😭

Yah, it’s a good tool. It will recognize the unprogrammed sensor for troubleshooting. Another user on the Piloteers forum mentioned there is a cheaper Autel tool that will program the sensor (don’t recall the model)

At least there's one crumb of comfort of owning the Autel TS508WF. It eliminates the guesswork on diagnosis if one of the TPMS sensors is dead. After working with the Autel TS508 and the MX 1-Sensors for a long time, they're time savers when it comes to TPMS diagnosis, programming blank sensors with new IDs, and performing relearns.

My code 7 problem was fixed by cleaning the thermocoupler. Had cold water, checked 12 year old Rheem water heater in an outdoor enclosure one mile from the ocean, it was completely off, no lights. Restarted, now showing the code 7. Tried the many ‘fixes, tin foil to circuit board, battery clicking valves and finally this reset procedure several times. Each ‘fix’ resulted in the same scenario, it would start, run, still showing code 7 then after a few minutes show normal operation code of one light every 3 seconds. This would last until the next day when I would find it completely shut off again, no lights. Almost bought a new controller, then thought about buying a new thermocoupler, finally decided to just remove the burner assembly and clean everything up like shiny new. Reassembled, started up, code shows normal operation and it has been fine ever since. So apparently code 7 will also appear if the pilot doesn’t stay lit for whatever reason, mine apparently being the assembly was just dirty. Note: this is my second Rheem water heater. First lasted 12 years, got drenched in a storm and was never the same. This unit (in a much better outdoor enclosure) shows no rust inside burner area and still no sediments on flushing. When I finally have to replace it with a the new one it will most likely be another Rheem!

I had a 7 flash code. I would reset it and works for few hours and trips again on same code. Rheem sent me the whole guts under warranty plus the controller and valve. The code says bad controller or valve. I replaced both and nothing changed. I replaced everything else after that including the burner assembly. So far so good. So this 7 code is not exactly what they say. also the new valve khmer the same as the old 15 ohms. I am not sure what caused the code

After if left on pilot the light stayed on

Hopefully that it resets my strange issue... It acts like it's burning out for to a flame up, but out tank is entirely clean! We have had no error lights at all, but it just turns off due to the little button between the red and white wires going to the bottom of the heater... It's a white ceramic looking fixture mounted to the bottom of the heater that hole the button. It fires fine, but it just throws the bottom some time later. IDK Thanks for the information, it's very hard to find info like this on secretive things on common appliances!

This worked for me with Rheem water heater. Thank you. Is there a potential problem that needs to be fixed so it doesn't happen again?

Thank you so much! Worked perfectly.

The basic process worked. I did a little modification. Completely turned it off and waited a few minutes or until the light went completely off. Then did the process that you provided and turned it off. Then depressed pilot and and got it lit. It worked great but there is a basic problem with the water heater and new parts have been sent by Rheem. Was just trying to get a few more showers out of it while waiting for the repair person to install parts.

Thank you! Worked!

Hello dear Dave, I have owned the same machine for almost forty years now, running on a single phase 220V. I would very much like to install a VFD and go 3-phase for the same reasons you did and get rid of the capacitors. Did you change your motor, and do you have both variable speeds using the mechanical and VFD speed controller? I was also contemplating doing the same to the milling attachment basically to get the reverse feature when doing taps. Your kind advise would be valuable. Best regards.

I can't believe that worked! Thank you!!

Worked perfect for me. I only needed to move to the very hot and hot and then back to the original position, and it went from 7 blips to the 1. Thank you!

After I replaced the heating chamber sensor and reignited, then I experienced a jammed dial knob at pilot position. I had to open the control gas valve box with remove one screw to release the rotating dial knob. After that I reignited and experienced 7 flashes error. I watched your clip and problem solved. It went from red flashes to blue flash in the “very hot” position while waiting after I have tried very hot, hot and pilot positions as presented in your clip. Thank you very much!

You are my hero! You got me to the promised land in 90 seconds. My wife thanks you as well!

This has performed exactly as desired th-cam.com/users/postUgkx8G49mV71sAzUl9shXyLW-r3XgHH9EVh1 . Basically, instant hot water instead of waiting up to two minutes as it was before. I have had this installed almost exactly one year now and just replaced the anode which is pictured. I pulled it out at six months and cleaned the heating element and removed debris. I would recommend a cleaning every six months and an anode replacement yearly. A mild citric acid and water solution soak really helps clean the heating element and tank. It must be fully disassembled to do the cleaning and that is not difficult but could have been made easier with a couple of design changes but no big deal.

Good information I have same problems I shut off the system for 10 minutes at off position Set it to pilot position after 10 minutes Ignite 5 to 6 times When Light start to flash hold the knob for 10 seconds than set the temperature to very hot for 10 minutes than set as hot position Now it’s working good Thank you for good information

Thanks-It worked

I find that the 7-flashes Error code (from a new Insert data) means that the system is in OFF mode... then I see NO Pilot light ! Used another user to HOLD Pilot Lighter more than a minute, igniting every 5 seconds... WHALLA - pilot light came on, and after a few minutes, Blue LED back on again... (this was after being on Vacation mode, pilot light went out)

I was just about to give up. But I started finagling with what you suggested and eventually got it working. Thank you for taking the time to do this!

Thank you ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

It worked .I am a fan😊

So I just brought a brand new control unit and it just did the same thing as the old 7 flashes so I'm kind of at an end as to what could be the problem

I have the same Honeywell Gas Control valve. Years ago after a couple years since install of my water heater, I got the 7 blink code error. BTW my WH was dead cold with no pilot flame. As I searched the Internet for a solution. I called Rheem Customer Support, they sent me a new controller under warranty. In the mean time (about two weeks) before the replacement arrived. I tried to reset the controller after watching another video on TH-cam with the same issue. You first remove all of the wires connected to the front of the controller, igniter and Thermopile. There is screw to remove then the front cover (white) comes off with the circuit board. Next you rub a balled up piece of aluminum along the back on the pins sticking out of the circuit board. This discharges a capacitor on the opposite side. I don’t know which one exactly as did not separate the board from the cover. After doing so. Reinstall the cover to the gas controller, and re light the pilot light. Then set the temp setting. Mine seems to not like the normal Hot setting, but setting A is OK. After receiving the replacement gas control valve, I never installed it since it was working fine and never had the error again. I kept the replacement for the future just in case it fails again. BTW the GCV sells for around $150 if you had to buy one.

Excellent video. It took me exactly 1:20 to diagnose my problem and correct it. I am very grateful.

First step and worked first try! Thank you!

Thanks for the video. I also have a 115V Maximat 11. I'm a machinist, not an electrician, My question is about the output voltage of the VFD. The way I'm seeing it, the drive outputs voltage based on the input. I also plan to use 220V single phase input. Since the motor originally ran on 115V, I'm curious about the actual voltage being output by the VFD. Obviously it's working fine but is the motor seeing 220V?

call the phone number on the tank and talk to manufacturer. your heater may still be under warranty. mine was and all parts were sent for free.

One comment - I have read that this controller is way more flaky if you operate your water heater at a temperature above the HOT setting. I used to run mine between A and B for many years until I read this. I now run it on HOT and the water temperature is plenty hot for us. It did seem to correlate with reduced frequency of losing the pilot.